<div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Interesting article:</div><div dir="ltr"><br><div><a href="https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-">https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>So diesel oils still contain ZDDP, which was reduced or removed from spark-ignition oils after around SF or SG (I think) due to catalytic converter poisoning. ZDDP is desirable to have in an oil, absent the concern over the catalytic converter. </div><div><br></div><div>The choices in diesel oils tend to be higher in viscosity; we can all see that on the shelves at the store. This can be bad news in a modern, fresh, tight-bearing-clearance engine. Thinner oils are necessary to properly fill the smaller bearing clearances. On the contrary, it seems that the looser old iron we should be discussing here would benefit from the thicker viscosity in most cases. Up to the point where there is concern about pumpability when very cold.</div><div><br></div><div>That last concern, where diesel oils have higher detergent, doing an excessively good job on the cylinder walls - I'm struggling to understand why this is a factor for gas engines and not a factor for diesel engines.</div><div><br></div><div>SO</div><div> </div><div><br></div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 8:38 AM Mark Johnson <<a href="mailto:markjohnson100@centurylink.net">markjohnson100@centurylink.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>I don't know how much the formula might have changed, but from
the early 1970's through when my dad left the farm in the mid
2000's, we ran Rotella T 15W-40 in a JD 620, 2 730's, an IH 300,
AC 190XT, 210, and 8030, several pickup trucks and Gleaner
combines, and heaven-only-knows how many cars, including mine
(Chevy 350 V8). Never had a lubrication-related failure that I can
remember. We bought the stuff by the barrel; usually had two of
them around - one at each farm, 14 miles apart. The only reason I
no longer use it is that today's cars recommend 5W-20 or 5W-30
viscosity.<br>
</p>
<p>The only exceptions were the JD H and A, where we used "Golden
Shell" non-detergent SAE 20 or 30, depending on time of year.</p>
<p>Disclaimer: My dad's baby sister was married to a Shell jobber,
but we paid the same price as everybody else :-).</p>
Mark J<br>
Columbia, MO<br>
Southern Indiana farm boy now working at the big university :-)<br>
<div class="gmail-m_-2987080698562284059moz-cite-prefix"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail-m_-2987080698562284059moz-cite-prefix">On 5/26/2019 12:04 PM, David Steinich
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">I've started using the Rotella T-4 15W-40 in all my
tractors that I don't expect to work in the winter. Haven't been
doing it long enough to see if there are any damaging effects
though. I have read about the additives like Henry mentioned -
specifically zinc and how it is bad for catalytic converters,
but good for our old valve lifters.
<div>It's also a lot easier to just have two oils on the shelf.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Dave </div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 11:50
AM Carl Gogol <<a href="mailto:cgogol1971@gmail.com" target="_blank">cgogol1971@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Henry-<br>
Unfortunately, the oil I used is not rated S anything. How
does that change<br>
your answer?<br>
Carl<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: AT <<a href="mailto:at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank">at-bounces@lists.antique-tractor.com</a>>
On Behalf Of Henry Miller<br>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 9:52 AM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:at@lists.antique-tractor.com" target="_blank">at@lists.antique-tractor.com</a><br>
Subject: Re: [AT] Diesel rated oi/ Gasoline powered engine?<br>
<br>
Read closely, most diesel rated oils are rated up to sf or
something like<br>
that. The s stands for spark ignition, and the f is the
revision. If it has<br>
a s rating at all it is better for your engine than a more
modern sj rating.<br>
Because of emissions Car engine manufacturers have been unable
to get the<br>
older additives needed by your tractor to work and have had to
change their<br>
bearings to get an oil that lubricates without destroying
emissions. Diesel<br>
engines have different considerations and still have those
additives. <br>
<br>
Bottom line, in all antique gas engines I start in the diesel
oil section<br>
and then find one with a gas rating. <br>
<br>
--<br>
Henry Miller<br>
<a href="mailto:hank@millerfarm.com" target="_blank">hank@millerfarm.com</a><br>
<br>
On Sun, May 26, 2019, at 8:39 AM, Carl Gogol wrote:<br>
> Without thinking, I just drained my "new" 1968 IH-140 and
filled it <br>
> with Rotella 15W-40 T4 Diesel rated oil.<br>
> It is one of those "All Fleet" oils and I was easily led
astray by <br>
> that slogan. Of course I carefully read the label once
the jug was empty.<br>
> What would you do? Drain and replace or leave it in and
replace it <br>
> next year? Are the additives all that different?<br>
> The IH 140 is an old state road clipper with a side mount
"HydroClipper"<br>
> sickle bar mower. The engine sounds really tight and
absent of any <br>
> sounds common from a long used engine. It will probably
get less than <br>
> 20 hours use in a year.<br>
> Carl in rainy Mallkus NY<br>
> <br>
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