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<p>The tractor shop I worked in in the late 60's and early 70's had
one of those rectifier chargers. I don't remember how many
batteries we could charge at a time but it was several. When I
got into working on Automatic transmissions later in life, I was
at a training course where they showed the problems with a cast
iron starter case in an aluminum transmisison and the ground
connected to the cast iron head with a steel bolt. They showed
us where torque converter bearings were pitted from the starter
grounding from the case to the torque converter. Also where the
engine bearings were pitted from the same thing. The cure was to
run a ground cable from the head bolt ground to the starter case.
We also used a star washer between every cable lug and the
additional lug or the case. In the mid 70's this stopped a lot of
problems with Chevrolet 350 hot start. I had another trick on
those 350 starters that I got from the racing groups.<br>
Cecil<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/12/2019 8:58 PM, Dean VP wrote:<br>
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<div>Yes reducing the pulley diameter will speed up the
armature. Increasing the speed probably isn't needed at full
throttle but many tractors are run at less than full throttle
much of the time and that increased armature speed might
duplicate normal full throttle charging. Yes the whole
charging system can be perfect but if you have too hungry of a
starter it negates everything at 6V. I was away from farm
machinery for 40 years so i had to relearn almost everything
but I distinctly remember having a tractor that wouldn't start
as long as i was hitting the starter but as soon as i let go
of the starter "boom" the tractor would start. The starter
was drawing so much away from the battery voltage that the
voltage to the points was so low it wouldn't produce enough
spark to run. . Had me more than a little a little puzzled for
awhile. That can be caused by a bad starter or bad wiring or
bad grounding or all of the above. We often forget when
replacing battery cables on our 6V tractors that about the
only battery cables sold at auto stores are for 12v and not
nearly heavy enough. But I'be had starters mounted in their
respective spot in the bell housing and not make adequate
ground to the engine frame. Then you get into garden tractors
and the engine frame is isolated from chassis ground and one
can get all messed up with a poor engine to chassis ground
cable. My tendency is to try to find the problem by taking
shortcuts, which most of the time doesn't work, after failing
then I start doing it methodically one step at a time. Believe
it or not I have had better luck using a volt meter across a
connection during cranking to isolate a problem rather than
using an ohmmeter to try to find a high resistance
connection. Sand paper and emery cloth are my friends. .But
then there is one tractor that I have owned for 20 years who's
generator still doesn't work right. I work on it in spurts
when i have some time. I never seem to find the real problem.
Then I lose patience and move on to something else. The
battery stays charged enough and I just keep the battery on a
trickle charge.when stored. One of these days i'm going to
get a real round tuit and fix that sucker right. it probably
will be something simple and very embarrassing. .</div>
<div><br>
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<div id="ydpafe5c5ceyahoo_quoted_3276908043"
class="ydpafe5c5ceyahoo_quoted">
<div style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial,
sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
<div> On Tuesday, March 12, 2019, 1:04:09 PM MST, Indiana
Robinson <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com"><robinson46176@gmail.com></a> wrote: </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
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<div id="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324">
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<div>I'll just start down through here... :-)</div>
<div>Our antique charger may have been made in the
1920's. It had I think two big knobs on the front
and an ammeter. The innards looked pretty simple. No
motor. I think one knob was volts / charging rate
and the other was number of batteries being charged.
Either 3, 6 or 12 as I recall. It would not charge a
12 volt battery. It used a "light bulb" ballast in
it but vacuum tube may have described it better than
light bulb. I think it had a Fahnestock clip on the
top of the bulb. The last place I ever saw where you
could buy one of those ballast bulbs was from</div>
<div><a shape="rect" href="http://www.natauto.com"
rel="nofollow" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">www.natauto.com</a></div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>About that Allis C... Sometimes things are not
what they seem on the surface. I often had it
charging but it was prone to lose ground at the
goofy starter anchor set-screw. I finally decided
that the "real" problem is the non obvious one. That
is that when the battery does not want to turn it
over that doesn't always mean the battery is really
that low. In the case of this Allis C I think most
of the problem is in the starter. It has been
serviced several times over the years and "seems" to
work OK but its amp draw is so heavy that I think it
sucks so much out of even a new 6 volt battery that
it starves the ignition circuit so much that it
fires poorly when cranking. Since spark is weak
while cranking it needs to crank longer to start and
the more it cranks the more it has left. It's a
vicious circle. I should mention too that this C has
oversized pistons and an increased compression
ratio. That piston and sleeve set was supposed to
give it about 30+ HP</div>
<div>That starter really spins on 12 volts and I think
given this tractors history and the way I use it I
think I am going with a one wire 12 volt alternator
and save the old parts.<br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Dean: unless I am mistaken I believe that you
have to make the generator pulley smaller to speed
it up??? <br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>In the old days we didn't have these "jumper
packs" and I'm guilty of always keeping one handy in
the truck. :-)</div>
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<div><br clear="none">
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<div>.<br clear="none">
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<div class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail_quote">
<div class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324yqt8297505998"
id="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324yqt76542">
<div class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail_attr"
dir="ltr">On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 3:02 PM Brian
VanDragt <<a shape="rect"
href="mailto:bvandragt@comcast.net"
rel="nofollow" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">bvandragt@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
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<blockquote
class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div>
<p style="font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,
arial, sans-serif;color:rgb(51,51,51);">I
thought I read somewhere that generators have
an optimum speed where they charge the most,
and going faster than that doesn't help, it
actually decreases output. The strange part
was that the optimum speed is actually slower
than a tractor's full engine speed, so the
generator charges the best at less than full
engine speed. Maybe I'll think of where I saw
that.</p>
<p style="font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,
arial, sans-serif;color:rgb(51,51,51);">Brian</p>
<blockquote type="cite">On March 12, 2019 at
2:22 PM Dean VP <<a shape="rect"
href="mailto:deanvp@att.net" rel="nofollow"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">deanvp@att.net</a>>
wrote: <br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div
class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpbc182841yahoo-style-wrap"
style="font-family:Helvetica Neue,
Helvetica, Arial,
sans-serif;font-size:13px;">
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<div>Has anyone simply changed the diameter
of the generator belt pulley to increase
RPM's of the generator? If so did it
help? </div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
</div>
<div
class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayahoo_quoted"
id="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayahoo_quoted_2438597120">
<div>
<div>On Tuesday, March 12, 2019, 8:00:18
AM MST, Ralph Goff <<a shape="rect"
href="mailto:alfg@sasktel.net"
rel="nofollow" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">alfg@sasktel.net</a>>
wrote:</div>
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<div>
<div>
<div
class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayiv1775614049yqt2715480476"
id="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayiv1775614049yqtfd12157">
<div
class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayiv1775614049moz-cite-prefix">On
3/12/2019 7:56 AM, Ron Cook wrote:
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<div
class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayiv1775614049yqt2715480476"
id="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayiv1775614049yqtfd27161"> <br
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<div
class="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayiv1775614049yqt2715480476"
id="ydpafe5c5ceyiv9725319324gmail-m_-7941835739634872683ox-cfc6871f9c-ydpa4b4f15ayiv1775614049yqtfd14629">
<p>I have never been around an Allis
Chalmers or Ford 6-volt tractor
that the electrical system
performed correctly.
International Harvester and John
Deere are the only other brands I
have any experience with. I
currently have both of those I use
and have no problems at all. I do
not have an IH M, but I remember
they were marginal on cranking. 6
volt obviously not enough. Same
with John Deere A. 12-volt fixes
both of them. 6 volt simply was
marginal to begin with. As far as
charging, I am of the opinion it
has to do with the generator's rpm
and in the case of the Ford, a
cheap low output generator. 10
amp generator would take all day
at full speed to charge the
battery back up and I doubt
anything other than brand new
would put out anywhere close to
10. Doing chores and such just
won't do it.</p>
</div>
<p>I still run the Cockshutt 40 on 6
volts although I've got a bigger
than original battery on it. My
brother fixed the starter problem
years ago by switching the body of
another starter from a <br
clear="none">
</p>
<p>Massey combine onto the Cockshutt.
It really improved the cranking
speed. If everything is working
right they don't need a lot of
cranking to start anyway. You've
likely seen the videos</p>
<p>of starting my 40 on some pretty
severe cold days on 6 volts. I've
seen a guy start a FArmall M , about
two turns of the starter and it was
running. I was amazed. <br
clear="none">
</p>
<p>On the other hand I've got a Case
DC4 that is impossible to start on 6
volts. Or even 12. <br clear="none">
</p>
<p>Ralph in Sask. <br clear="none">
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Central Indiana USA<br clear="none">
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