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<p>Many years ago I waited while an old timer replaced the linings
on my old 36 Plymouth. He took a hammer and opened up the vise
jaws and put a curve on the metal plates that the linings rivet
to. He said this would spread the disk apart some and cause the
slack to be taken up in the gears and driveline before the clutch
engaged. It worked!! I have done it on several old worn
tractors trucks and Plymouth cars since, and they work great and
don't jump. Even on a Ford!!!! The old fords were notorious for
jumping several times before you got going....<br>
Cecil<br>
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<p>On 3/4/2019 12:00 AM, Indiana Robinson wrote:<br>
</p>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAMe_8WXS7kfBjoQFW5UZiEuP21tvgOuUvR_BafADfgS1yqaEZw@mail.gmail.com">
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<div dir="ltr">My MM-R has a hand clutch, on the right and
operates like a Deere but not as smoothly. It's a tad jumpy. I
bought it at the auction of an uncle by marriage and I believe
he bought it new. He and his neighbor farmed together for many
years and the neighbor told me that it was always jumpy. I was
discussing it with a fellow that had one like it at a tractor
show and he said that yes, his was kind of jumpy and always
was... It takes a light touch to operate it smoothly. I split
the tractor before I painted it to replace the transmission
front seal which someone had damaged a little when installing
it. It may have been done at the factory, it didn't leak much. I
went all over the clutch while it was in half and the clutch was
clean and dry and had almost no wear on it. I readjusted the
clutch by the book but it didn't change anything. This tractor
had very little use over the years, my uncle only owned about 25
acres and the neighbor only farmed about 140. The neighbor
didn't like using the R and he had 3 tractors of his own, a
three plow Oliver (1600 something), an Oliver 77 and a very nice
old unstyled Allis WC. The R spent most of its life parked in a
tool shed. It had an oddball size rear tires (36") and when one
failed they just stopped using it. When we got it at the auction
it had sat maybe 10 years, a valve was stuck but it was an easy
free-up. I stuck a set of duals I had bought on it that fit the
same hub and I drove it the 15 miles home to "loosen it up".<br>
</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 11:23
PM HERBERT METZ <<a href="mailto:metz-h.b@comcast.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">metz-h.b@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<p
style="font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif">Ralph,
Our CC Case had operators clutch hand lever on right side;
same as John Deeres. When did Case change operators
clutch hand lever from right side to left side? In my
opinion that is a huge change. Herb(GA)<br>
</p>
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style="font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif"><br>
</p>
<blockquote type="cite">On March 3, 2019 at 8:26 PM Ralph
Goff <<a href="mailto:alfg@sasktel.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">alfg@sasktel.net</a>> wrote: <br>
<br>
<div
class="gmail-m_-4430266211226715701gmail-m_1518430095159378982ox-2c4ea85ac2-moz-cite-prefix">On
3/3/2019 2:31 PM, HERBERT METZ wrote: <br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Dean, I agree with you that John Deeres were very
good tractors; I worked many a ten hour day operating
the neighbors John Deere A or B plowing, discing,
listing, or baling. Never a problem or concern.<br>
</p>
<p>The important thing that I always had to keep in mind
was 'pushing the clutch lever backward' on a John
Deere to stop whereas as on our 1938 CC Case one
'pushed the clutch lever forward' to stop. Herb(GA)<br>
</p>
</blockquote>
<p>My DC4 Case and JD AR both push forward to engage
clutch. Pull back to stop. Only difference is the JD has
the clutch lever on the right. <br>
</p>
<p>Ralph in Sask. <br>
</p>
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<div>-- <br>
<br>
Francis Robinson<br>
aka "farmer"<br>
Central Indiana USA<br>
<a href="mailto:robinson46176@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">robinson46176@gmail.com</a><br>
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