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On the subject of snow and plowing.<br>
<br>
I have a 6' 3pt blade that I have used behind my Ford 8N, once it
gets up to 5 inches or so, it does not work at all well.<br>
<br>
A few years ago I picked up a Sauder blade for the tractor:<br>
<img src="cid:part1.B153DF62.CE76C4EF@moosebird.net" alt=""><br>
<br>
and 3 years ago cast iron weights for the rear wheels:<br>
<img src="cid:part2.1AB3F25C.D8AF8D12@moosebird.net" alt=""><br>
which helped a lot (usually can handle 6 to 8 inches without a
problem. (Wish the tractor had a locking differential tho...).<br>
Howard<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/3/19 11:35 AM, Spencer Yost wrote:<br>
</div>
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cite="mid:A18478C6-B0E6-4F7B-9CEA-1B25B26C1F59@rdfarms.com">
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I have a 6’ 3 pt blade for for Ford 861. It will not pull
anything more than 4-6”(depending on wetness) reliably, 8” if I
don’t mind always having to plow downhill, making a mess of things
and getting stuck a few times. More than 8” and it’s a
non-starter.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I really feel like I need a 9 foot blade so I can put an
extreme angle on it yet still scrape where my tires have been(or
keep both on pavement if back blading). With the 6’ blade the
differential traction (one rear in the cleared area and one in
the snow) with an angled blade a<span style="background-color:
rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">fter the first pass </span>becomes a
headache.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I built a belly mounted snow blade for my Farmall A. It was 7
foot and angled about 33 degrees. Steering was a bit touchy
(fronts in the snow) at times but otherwise it worked great.
Just like using a motor grader. Just not enough power and
weight for big snows.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Nothing like being out on an antique tractor on a beautiful,
snowy winter morning though.</div>
<div><br>
<div dir="ltr" id="AppleMailSignature">Spencer Yost</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
On Feb 3, 2019, at 11:06 AM, Jim Becker <<a
href="mailto:mr.jebecker@gmail.com" moz-do-not-send="true">mr.jebecker@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
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<div dir="ltr">
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<div>I’ve had about 15” of snow so far this winter.
I’ve plowed 4 times. Three of the four, driving
through the accumulation was no problem, but we had
the situation Steve described. I was expecting a
partial thaw and I didn’t want it freezing back on the
drive.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Jim Becker</div>
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<div style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<div style="font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a
title="soffiler@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">Stephen Offiler</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, February 03, 2019 9:46
AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a
title="at@lists.antique-tractor.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">Antique Tractor Email
Discussion Group</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [AT] 620 day</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Hi Ralph:
<div> </div>
<div>That's a great answer in places where the snow
arrives and then reliably hangs around until
Spring. The climate in my region (RI/CT border)
is highly variable due to proximity of the ocean
as well as the way the jet stream tends to bend in
our general area. In my 56 years there's never
been a winter with continuous ground cover. I've
seen a winter where 4" total fell the entire
season, and that was only two winters separated
from the all-time record which was around 120".
One pattern that's fairly common is a heavy dense
snowfall at just below 32F, with some changeover
back and forth to rain, leaving several inches of
maximum-density wet mess. Our temperatures seem
to cycle... warm up and snow/rain, followed by a
dry cold spell. If you drive thru that heavy wet
mess, you leave deep ruts, and there's a strong
chance it's going to freeze later. It's less
about the slipperiness of the ice, and more about
the irregularity of those ruts that makes them
hard to drive thru/over/around, and then if more
snow falls, plowing is just a disaster as the
blade catches on the irregularities of the ruts.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I modified a 7' Woods 3-pt back blade, adding
home-made skid shoes and removing the steel
cutting edge and replacing it with a heavy piece
of rubber, 1" thick, 6" wide, 7' long. (McMaster
Carr if anyone is curious). It's sort of like a
giant windshield wiper blade. I keep the shoes
set up about an inch or so, which is my attempt to
leave the gravel in place. It sort-of works.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>SO</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sat, Feb 2,
2019 at 7:22 PM Ralph Goff <<a
moz-do-not-send="true">alfg@sasktel.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT:
1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid;
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">On 2/2/2019 5:29 PM,
Mike M wrote:<br>
> Problem I have is that our driveway is
crushed asphalt, and we always <br>
> get snow before it fully freezes solid. If I
try to scrape it clean <br>
> with my back blade, I end up with half of it
in my yard.<br>
><br>
> Mike M <br>
<br>
It would be the same problem here with gravel,
although my driveway is <br>
getting seriously short on gravel anyway. I like
to get a layer of <br>
packed snow built up on it so then I can scrape
with<br>
<br>
the blade or snow blower without digging up
gravel. Sometimes I'll drag <br>
a pair of old tractor tires up and down the
driveway to help flatten out <br>
and pack the snow.<br>
<br>
Ralph in Sask.<br>
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