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<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">If you need to put off the repair, I would recommend once temperatures in your area are above freezing, switch to pure water with no antifreeze. The water can evaporate with warm operation, but the antifreeze will not, it just accumulates. Maybe put a petcock in the drain plug so you can monitor how bad it is by draining a bit on a regular basis. If it gets really bad you will need to repair. </span></div>
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<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">You might also try some stop-leak to slow it down, I'm not generally a fan of it, but in a pinch it might help for a minor leak.</span></div>
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<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;"> <span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">All engines get small amounts of water in oil from condensation in periods of cold operation. You often see it as white slimy stuff. If I recall, the white color comes from the water leaching out additives, but they go back in the oil once the water part evaporates. <br></span></span></div>
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<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">I recall from my days at Detroit Diesel that antifreeze in the oil was really rough on bearings. Very risky to run with antifreeze in the oil.</span></div>
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<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">As an interesting side note, historically locomotives with the old 2-stroke GM/EMD engines (567, 645& 710) ran only water as a coolant + I believe some corrosion inhibitors. Engines idled all winter or were drained if taken out of service. In the winter time, if there was a failure and the engine had to be shut down in cold conditions, the water was pumped into the fuel tanks to avoid and environmental issues bu just drained on the tracks and separated out later.</span></div>
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<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">Bob Straub</span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000; background-color: #ffffff;">dieselbobLLC.com</span></div>
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In a message dated 3/13/2018 4:27:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, steveallen855@centurytel.net writes:
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<blockquote style="padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left: blue 2px solid;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #000000; font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"> John,<br /><br />Are you sure that it was antifreeze?<br /><br />I can't say about the 4020, but my old A & B, need to have a little water drained from the crankcase and transmission every year, and it isn't coming from the cooling system. It isn't nearly as much since I have put them under roof, but they still manage to collect a small amount even so.<br /><br />FWIW.<br /><br />The "original" Steve Allen<br /><br />----- Original Message -----<br />----------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br />Message: 1<br />Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 18:42:35 -0400<br />From: John Hall <<a href="mailto:jtchall@nc.rr.com">jtchall@nc.rr.com</a>><br /><br />Haven't seen anything from ATIS in days. So here is a little something <br />for you guys to ponder. Spring is upon us and needed to get the 4020 <br />Deere diesel serviced. I pulled the drain plug slowly and noticed <br />antifreeze coming out instead of oil. I caught about 4-6 oz of <br />antifreeze before it switched over to all oil. Pulled the pan and <br />pressurized the coolant system. Number 6 has oil coming between the <br />piston and sleeve--out side of sleeve looks dry (makes me think the <br />orings on sleeves are OK). I have not had the engine hot and antifreeze <br />is adequate, so I have no reason to suspect a crack. I really don't have <br />time to do an in frame rebuild right now, just considering a head gasket <br />replacement--should face head as soon as I can find someone who can. <br />Supposedly this engine has weep holes in the side of the block, but I <br />haven't found them. the block is a replacement from 79 or the very <br />early 80's. I am not ruling out a in-fram rebuild, would just like to <br />wait until next winter if I can.<br /><br />Your thoughts?<br /><br />John Hall<br /><br />_______________________________________________<br />AT mailing list<br /><a href="mailto:AT@lists.antique">AT@lists.antique</a>-tractor.com<br /><a href="http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com</a><br /> </span></blockquote>
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