[AT] Actual tractor question

Thu Apr 13 10:44:13 PDT 2023

Ron,

I understand that cycling the cylinders “should” remove air, but not sure it always does that well.

I would try breaking a hose at the cylinder, and pumping a few gallons of oil through the hoses, 1 at a time. I would bleed the ‘up” hoses with the lift down, and bleed the “down” hose with the lift up if you have a way of holding the loader in the up position so that it does not fall when you break the hoses and move the lever to the “down” position to flush that line. The reason for that it to minimize the amount of oil on each side of the cylinder ram when you bleed that side.
An alternative is to remove the pin from the lift cylinder and disconnect it from the loader to extend it when you are bleeding the “down” circuit.
I would have something to catch the oil you bleed so you can refill your system after you bleed each hose. You do not want to run your pump out of oil.

I agree that a faulty hose (kinked, crushed, internal lining failure, object stuck in hose) could also cause problems. When you bleed the hoses, if 1 bleeds fluid slower than the other, that would be an indication of some hose issue. Replacing a few hoses may be a way to insure that the hoses are not a problem. Some loaders have combination of hoses and steel tubing – look for crimped or bent tubing.

Question – when you rebuilt the cylinders, was the inner cylinder bore good  all the way?? It is possible that the cylinder bore streched in the center, where it allows oil to bypass the cylinder seal at mid stroke, but seals fine on both ends. This is not a real likely thing, but it is possible.

Dennis

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From: Stuart Harner<mailto:stuart at harnerfarm.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2023 8:20 AM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Actual tractor question

It seems really unlikely there is still air in the system after all the
cycles it has done.

Is it possible to swap the hoses where the two sides are tied together?

My guess is that there is an internal fault in a hose on the left side.
If there is, swapping the hoses would move the problem to the other
cylinder.

You could also swap the hoses for the bucket and the lift at the valve
and see if the problem remains in the lift or if it moves to the bucket.
That would confirm the valve function.

Both of these should be easier than swapping the cylinders which would
be a last resort option to prove it is in the cylinder itself.

Just some off the top of my head ideas to isolate the problem.

My tractor blew the main pressure line the other day and pumped the tank
dry before I knew it. Replaced hose and refilled. Two cycles of each
cylinder purged all the air and it once again was running smoothly.

Hopefully someone else has some other ideas.

Stuart

On 4/13/23 00:53, rdhaskell at juno.com wrote:
> Make that a Powermaster.
> Ron.
> On Wed, 12 Apr 2023 21:12:32 -0700 <rdhaskell at juno.com> writes:
>> Hi all.
>> Our club has a Ford 851 Farm master with a Superior 200 loader.  A
>> while
>> back one ram on the bucket blew out, and I rebuilt both tilt rams.
>> Then
>> the lift rams went crazy.  the one on the right wanted to work
>> properly,
>> and the left lagged behind going up and responded last going down.
>> I
>> rebuilt both lift rams but the problem continued.  It appears to be
>> air
>> in the system.  I have now determined the proper way to top off the
>> hydraulic fluid and have the correct procedure to get the air out.
>> The
>> book says go up and down for 10 minutes with a load in the bucket.
>> I
>> have done this hundreds of lifts with no improvement.  Anyone have
>> a
>> better way to get the air out?  Or is air not the problem?
>>
>> Ron Haskell
>> Riverside CA
>> USA
>>
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> Ron Haskell
> Riverside CA
> USA
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