[AT] Progress

Wed Jan 12 10:33:55 PST 2022

Looks good, now you just need to resist the urge to attach it to a tractor and “go for a drive”   LOL

From: Spencer Yost
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2022 10:54 AM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
Subject: Re: [AT] Progress

Thanks again to Steve for his idea to use the little small trailer kit and for everyone else’s help and advice. The job is complete. The clearance between the step wells just wasn’t there(off by just 3/4”) so I had to raise the cab up higher than I wanted to. But this gave me the opportunity to design bracing and framework that was both strong and forklift friendly.   I also designed it so that just four bolts gets the framework and the cab off the trailer or just four cab mounting bolts gets the cab off the framework.  I really wanted the design to be easy lift and easy dismount

I had to raise it about 7 inches.   Rather than interrupt peoples’ weekend to help I just did it myself.   To raise it I just inched up one side at the time using a hydraulic ram and raising the jacks.

Now to get the clutter out of the cab 🤣

Spencer

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:06 PM, Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:

Hey Brad,

Sorry for the delay in responding I had to put it off at the time and then just simply forgot.

Yeah I’ve got a son-in-law and a son who are both really big strong guys who have big strong friends.  I’m thinking with some appliance lift straps or tow straps they can get it up high enough for me too get the trailer properly positioned underneath it.

I currently have jack stands situated under the side step wells and if push comes to shove they can definitely lift each  side up 2” while I keep sticking boards between the jack stands and the side step wells to raise it.  I only need about 6 or 8 inches of additional height.  This method also allows me to incrementally and carefully lower the cab onto locating bolts.

I’m using wood to attach the cab to the frame of the trailer because I can easily and quickly fabricate the part that mounts to the cab; in place, while properly locating the bolts holes.  Then remove it from the cab once it’s tight and right and attach it to the trailer Then when the boys left it down it will just be a matter of getting the trailer lined up underneath it.  

If I was going to actually trailer it  down the street I would use steel but I’ll never actually tow this thing  down the street. I’ll roll it up on my equipment trailer and carry it wherever needs to go. trailering this directly more than a mile or two just sounds like a recipe for damaging the cab in some way.

Spencer

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 27, 2021, at 10:21 PM, Brad Loomis <brad.loomis at gmail.com> wrote:

That looks like the bee's knees for that use. Nice and compact I take it you, and a friend or two will pick it up and place on whatever 'locators' you have on the trailer? Or do you use a lift/ gantry?
Brad

On Mon, Dec 27, 2021 at 6:21 PM Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
I finally made good on my threat to buy that little trailer from Northern tool. Got a few small checks as gifts this year so I went ahead and splurged. As luck would have it, the diagonals of the frame almost exactly match the diagonals of the mounting points of the cab. So this is going to fit up real nice and easy. 

Total cost was $396 after tax, but there’s a coupon code for a $50 gift card to Northern tool for purchases over 250  right  now.   Since I spend about $300 a year at the store or online just on odds and ends I consider it true savings as I will definitely be able to use it. So it’s $346 right now here in NC.

PS: the trailer jack is brand new but was something I had left over from an auction several years back. The trailer jack does not come with the trailer if you are wondering.

Spencer
Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 28, 2021, at 2:20 PM, Indiana Robinson <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:

I have said for years that "You almost can't have too many trailers..."
The one shown looks to be a great price.
I have one that was made on a pop-up camper frame that I may mount my little Wood-mizer sawmill on to save my back.
I once bought one made on a smallish boat trailer that had a long narrow box on it. It had been made  by a small club to haul their hang-gliders in. They went another route and consigned it to an Amish auction. I think I paid $10 for it.
I think I only have 6 trailers right now.
Spencer, maybe you can "borrow" a boat trailer from your borrowing neighbor...  :-)

.

On Sun, Nov 28, 2021 at 11:24 AM rbrooks at hvc.rr.com <rbrooks at hvc.rr.com> wrote:
Great idea. I think I will have to pick one up for the body of the 34 Plymouth!

Thanks

Bob
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On Nov 27, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Spencer Yost <spencer at rdfarms.com> wrote:
Looks like Steve’s idea is the winner.  Think I am going in this direction:

https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543

I’m not worried about delays in paper work for registration(a common negative mentioned in reviews) because I can just pull/winch it up onto my regular equipment trailer to take it to the sandblaster and painter.  In fact, I’d probably prefer it.  The frame/configuration looks easy enough to modify to bolt the cab to it.

Thanks all for the feedback!

Spencer
Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 25, 2021, at 2:25 AM, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:

Easy, go to harbor freight and get one of the trailer kits they sell. Bolt a couple cross bars to it that can bolt to the cab mounts or other solid point. Now you have a dolly and trailer all in one, to work on it you unbolt the tongue and attach a leg in it’s place. Cheaper than buying the steel and you have a small trailer in the end. Have done this a couple times. To the point I have one now that has adjustable arms on it so I can get the wheels under the COG to make it easier to move and a fixed height dolly wheel to let me push it around easier. Same thing works for the box. 

From: Spencer Yost
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2021 10:55 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: [AT] Progress

As you folks may remember, I have committed to starting the restoration of my 1957 three-quarter ton Chevy pick up. The first pieces of business were re-arranging the shop(check), installing airlines (check), a wood stove in the shop so that I can work during the winter (check), and installing ceiling mounted fans so I can work in the summer(check)

Next order of business is building a dolly for the cab. I need to build a dolly that will allow me to move it around the shop and also to move it onto a trailer to take it to my soda blaster after I finish the metal work.  Any ideas here are welcome.

While I don’t anticipate doing a lot of work on the cab anytime soon, it’s becoming clear to me that even though I’m opening up half my shop for this project I’m going to need to be able to scooch it around from time to time to complete some of the other work. 

I need to finish the cub cadet 123 restoration 1st to finish to finalize making room for the project. The motor has been rebuilt and final assembly is nearly complete. So I don’t anticipate that taking me on a awful lot of time. 

The front axle and springs of the truck were restored sometime ago, and the rear axle has only been partially done.   So I need to finish up the “sprung” work, the driveline and transmission and frame and get wheels sandblasted and painted and tires.  Then I’ll get the cab metal patched and to the blaster and painter and get it on the frame.

With my schedule that looks like six months-9 months of work and all I am willling to plan and think about.  After six months I will be finished with school and have extra time to put onto the project.

Spencer

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-- 
-- 

Francis Robinson
aka "farmer"
Central Indiana USA
robinson46176 at gmail.com

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