[AT] Tractor battery
Mike M
meulenms at gmx.com
Fri Nov 19 19:17:52 PST 2021
I have an alternator adjustment bolt that is easy access, would that be
a good choice?
Mike M
On 11/16/2021 11:34 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
> You can run a new cable to the engine block, just need to find a spot
> where there is an unused threaded hole, or where you can remove a bolt
> and use it to make the attachment. Clean the area and hit it with a
> file or some sandpaper, then run a tap in the hole to make sure
> everything is clean before attaching the cable. If necessary use a new
> bolt and flat washer, stainless will help with future corrosion
> issues/concerns.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
> On Monday, November 15, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>
> Tore out the battery today, tons of corrosion, to the point that
> the positive nut for the clamp was almost reduced by 75%, I had to
> pound it off. I thought I had things cleaned up but it appears
> that was not the case. I'll go battery shopping tomorrow, and
> hopefully I can find something close. Meanwhile I have the battery
> case coated in baking soda, to help neutralize the leaking battery
> acid. Question for the list can I jump a diesel, without the
> battery installed? I'm running out of time in Michigan, and all
> our water is shut off except the barn frost free.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike M
>
> On 11/15/2021 3:37 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>
>> Not a problem, I get to deal with these things a lot. At this
>> point even doing simple repairs are becoming hard if not
>> impossible for the average DIYer due to the way the companies are
>> building them. There are some out there now that have “sealed
>> drivelines” where they have no dipsticks or easily accessible
>> fill plugs to even do routine service and you need a scan tool to
>> even check fluid levels!
>>
>> *From: *Stephen Offiler <mailto:soffiler at gmail.com>
>> *Sent: *Monday, November 15, 2021 5:28 AM
>> *To: *Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
>> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>
>> Extremely useful and informative for modern vehicles, thanks SteveW!
>>
>> Steve O.
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 10:39 PM Steve W.
>> <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>
>> Whatever you do, do NOT use the old “unhook the battery to
>> see if it stays running” test that used to be done. On any
>> vehicles newer than about 1998 that is almost a guaranteed
>> way to destroy the charging system. On most cars and trucks
>> built from there on up, the voltage regulator is part of the
>> engines control unit. Those are not cheap to replace. Another
>> no-no is to jump start a newer vehicle without charging the
>> battery or leaving a jump pack on it, many of the newer
>> vehicles will read the bad battery and crank the voltage and
>> amperage way up to try to compensate for the low battery,
>> that can kill the alternator, and if the battery is failing
>> it can blow it up from the excessive charging. I can’t count
>> how many vehicles I had to repair once the bug measures let
>> people start using their cars again, after they were parked
>> for 3-4 months.
>>
>> Now if you are one of the “fortunate” who has one of the over
>> engineered modern rolling computers made from about 2017 and
>> up, Check really close in service information before you
>> replace an old battery, many of those need to have the
>> battery initialized into the system because the ECU has
>> adjusted itself as the old battery wore out, you need to tell
>> it that you are installing the new battery and what it is in
>> CCA and type, be it a flooded cell, AGM, Lithium or other as
>> they all use slightly different charging routines and it’s
>> easy to cook a battery if it’s set up wrong. To go with that,
>> many of the parts stores offer installation as long as you
>> have one that is reasonably easy, there are quite a few that
>> are not due to the battery locations. OH and for the import
>> owners, be sure which battery you actually need as many of
>> the high dollar brands use 2 or three different batteries
>> scattered around the vehicle. Mercedes for instance has one
>> in the trunk, one under the hood and one tucked in behind the
>> dash!
>>
>> For those of you who still want to DIY it, here is another
>> tip. On cars that have lots of options or anything 2017 and
>> up, the security systems can be a royal pain if you remove
>> the battery, they can lock you out of everything so you end
>> up towing it to a dealer to have it flashed back. The way
>> around this is simple. Find the feed and ground lugs for the
>> fuse box or if it has them the jumper terminals mounted out
>> in the open. Now grab a power supply or a fully charged
>> battery and connect it up to those, in the case of using a
>> spare battery, connect it, start the engine and let it run
>> for 20 minutes or so, that will equalize the charge in the
>> add-on battery, verify that the charging circuit is working
>> as well, simply by measuring the voltage with the engine off,
>> then again with it running. With a power supply (NOT A COMMON
>> CHARGER) you just dial it up to the voltage the service info
>> says or at least 13 volts. Now you can disconnect the main
>> battery without losing any settings or programming because
>> the ECU never sees it disconnected. Just remember that the
>> Positive terminal will still be hot when you do this, my SOP
>> is to pull the ground side, then take a heavy rubber/plastic
>> baggy and as soon as the pos. comes of it goes into the bag
>> to keep it safe.
>>
>> *From: *Henry Miller <mailto:hank at millerfarm.com>
>> *Sent: *Sunday, November 14, 2021 4:23 PM
>> *To: *at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> *Subject: *Re: [AT] Tractor battery
>>
>> Be careful with modern cars, some cycle the alternator on and
>> off. Weird when driving to see the voltmeter not hold
>> constant. (This was a rental car, I almost turned around for
>> one that worked before I figured it out )
>>
>> --
>>
>> Henry Miller
>>
>> hank at millerfarm.com
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, at 16:37, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>
>> > Quick check is just battery voltage not running versus
>> running. If your
>>
>> > alternator is putting out something, voltage is higher when
>> running. If
>>
>> > the alternator is bad, voltage is close to the same or a
>> bit lower when
>>
>> > running (probably lower because the battery gave up some
>> juice to crank it
>>
>> > over). If you are wondering if the alternator is somewhere
>> in between
>>
>> > healthy and dead, turn on as many electrical loads as you
>> can while
>>
>> > running. Alternator should handle those loads and still
>> give the battery
>>
>> > terminals something over 13.5V. (Because it is supplying
>> other things in
>>
>> > addition to battery recharge, you may not see the whole
>> 14-ish volts, but
>>
>> > it must be greater than 12.6-ish to be pushing charge into
>> the battery.
>>
>> > Hope this helps.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > SO
>>
>> >
>>
>> >
>>
>> > On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 3:43 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> >> Thanks Steve, it there a way to test whats coming out the
>> alternator?
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> Mike M
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> On 11/14/2021 2:15 PM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> Hi Mike:
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> I've heard baking soda can neutralize the acid but I'd
>> probably ask the
>>
>> >> Google for backup on that.
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> A good range for battery terminal voltage engine-running
>> is 13.6V-14.4V.
>>
>> >> Some modern voltage regulators have temperature
>> compensation, dropping
>>
>> >> voltage in high temperature conditions (when it is easier
>> to charge and
>>
>> >> easier to overdo it) and raising voltage in the cold (when
>> they're not as
>>
>> >> eager to accept charge). Not all alternators do this, but
>> I just wanted to
>>
>> >> explain why there's such a fairly wide range.
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> SO
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 2:03 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >>
>>
>> >>> Tough to say Steve, I do know that I filled some of the
>> battery chambers
>>
>> >>> with distilled water because some seemed a little low,
>> and it leaked
>>
>> >>> battery acid for a few days. whats the best way to clean
>> that up? I know
>>
>> >>> it's very caustic. What should the voltage be across the
>> terminals with the
>>
>> >>> engine running?
>>
>> >>>
>>
>> >>> Thanks,
>>
>> >>> Mike M
>>
>> >>>
>>
>> >>> On 10/28/2021 6:08 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>
>> >>>
>>
>> >>> The question is, what happened? Is your alternator not
>> charging?
>>
>> >>>
>>
>> >>> SO
>>
>> >>>
>>
>> >>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 9:30 PM Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >>>
>>
>> >>>> Whew!! got it back for now. It started right up and the
>> terminals where
>>
>> >>>> shiny as new, ground as well. Voltage across the
>> terminals was 13.3 and
>>
>> >>>> climbing. I have the trickle charger on it overnight,
>> and will give it a
>>
>> >>>> good workout tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> Regards,
>>
>> >>>> Mike M
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 1:22 PM, Mike M wrote:
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> When I checked the voltage between the posts with a
>> digital volt meter,
>>
>> >>>> I only got 11.5 volts, I left the charger on overnight,
>> and it's now up to
>>
>> >>>> 13 volts, so I switched to a maintainer. It's raining
>> here today so I'm
>>
>> >>>> leaving it on the charger, and yes I will check the
>> grounds for sure!
>>
>> >>>> Thanks for the advice to all. I'll let you know how it
>> turns out.
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> Regards,
>>
>> >>>> Mike M
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> On 10/27/2021 7:54 AM, Steve Offiler wrote:
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> I wonder how many thousands of times farmer has typed
>> that over the
>>
>> >>>> years!
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> When Mike said it only clicked when jumped, that simply
>> says bad
>>
>> >>>> connection. I’m not sure why the focus on a bad battery
>> just yet.
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> Steve O.
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> On Oct 27, 2021, at 6:47 AM, Indiana Robinson
>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com>
>>
>> >>>> <robinson46176 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>
>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>
>> >>>> Check the grounds.
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> .
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 1:22 AM Mike M
>> <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>>> Makes me wish for my old tractor and I could back it up
>> onto a hill,
>>
>> >>>>> let it get rolling and pop the clutch in 2nd gear.
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>> Mike M
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>> On 10/26/2021 11:46 PM, Carl Szabelski wrote:
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>> Mike,
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>> Try jumping it, but leave the cables connected for
>> 20-30 minutes before
>>
>> >>>>> you attempt a start. Even if you’ve had the charger on
>> all night. Even with
>>
>> >>>>> a dead battery it should start and run. It may die when
>> you disconnect the
>>
>> >>>>> cables, but if it doesn’t, it should run, but the
>> battery probably won’t
>>
>> >>>>> take a charge.
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>> Carl
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >>>>>
>>
>> >>>>>> So my tractor battery went dead overnight. It's an
>> Exide Select
>>
>> >>>>>> Performance battery, with 925 CCA model 31XHE with 180
>> minutes of
>>
>> >>>>>> reserve capacity. I tried jumping it with my truck but
>> no luck it would
>>
>> >>>>>> just click. I started looking online, and about fell
>> out of my chair.
>>
>> >>>>>> Prices started at $300 and and most are out of stock.
>> Does anyone have
>>
>> >>>>>> any good sources for batteries? It was manufactured in
>> 2014, so I guess
>>
>> >>>>>> the clock just ran out. Any ideas would be greatly
>> appreciated. Is
>>
>> >>>>>> there
>>
>> >>>>>> anyway to service it, or rejuvenate it?
>>
>> >>>>>>
>>
>> >>>>>> Thank you,
>>
>> >>>>>> Mike M
>>
>> >>>>>>
>>
>> >>>>>>
>>
>> >>>>>>
>>
>> >>>>>>
>>
>> >>>>>> --
>>
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>> >>>>>
>>
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>> >>>>
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>>
>> >>>> --
>>
>> >>>> --
>>
>> >>>>
>>
>> >>>> Francis Robinson
>>
>> >>>> aka "farmer"
>>
>> >>>> Central Indiana USA
>>
>> >>>> robinson46176 at gmail.com
>>
>> >>>>
>>
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>>
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