[AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

[Steve W.]

Cecil Bearden wrote:
> The way those work is ther is a reamer/knurler you run through the 
> guide, then  insert the sleeve, then run a burnisher/expander through.  
> I have a bit for an air hammer that drives the burnisher.   I first 
> started using a hammer.  I get a lot of flack from the "professional 
> Engine rebuilders" about these only being 0.030 thick.  A 0.010 wear on 
> a guide will create a bad seal on a valve, so when the guides are worn 
> 0.010 or 0.015 they are shot.. Just my $0.02.......  I have had some of 
> my small block chevy rebuilds go over 200K miles.  I also have used 
> these on old continental engines and they have outlasted the machine 
> they were on...   My Dad one time said it was ridiculous for us to buy a 
> rebuilt short block when we always had to rebuild them before 
> installation or soon after..    I had a replacement engine from Pep Boys 
> that had a lifter come apart (350 chev. )  on the way to Chicago from 
> OK.    Pep Boys agreed to give me a new short block. Mainly because I 
> had worked with the ass't mgr years prior.  I opened up the new engine 
> and had to replace the lifters, valves, timing chain and gears, and bore 
> the guide and line them.   They reground the lifters, valves, and 
> re-used timing chains and gears.  They had installed an oversize valve 
> guide after grinding the valve stem.  Lifters and valves are case hardened..
> 
> This is the reason I will not buy a rebuilt engine..
> 
> Cecil
> 

I have a similar setup in the old tools box, one is only the knurler set 
up while the other has the option to do bronze liners. Someplace I still 
have a set to do small engines as well, back when you could still get 
the parts for them !!
Even have a piston knurler in there someplace.

-- 
Steve W.