[AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

Sat Nov 28 20:47:07 PST 2020

Hi Dean, those studs look pretty knarly  to me, not being a JD man like
you are, I'd try to replace them.

Mike M

On 11/28/2020 11:19 PM, Dean VP wrote:
> Carl,
>
> The broken ear is now a non-event since this manifold is defective internally which caused the start of this whole project.  I too am getting more concerned about the stud condition.   If I was younger I would not hesitate to tackle removing these studs, with the high probability of them all breaking off.  But knowing how much work it takes to repair broken off bolts I am reluctant to knowingly risk causing it. I guess I will have to sleep on it for a while/a few nights. But I do know I sure as hell don't want to do this all over again. Especially at $79 a head gasket.
>
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of szabelski at wildblue.net
> Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2020 8:51 PM
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
> Dean,
> With the exception of the broken ear on the manifold and the studs, everything looks good. I would just run a finish file across all the mating surfaces, in two directions,  and see if there are any high/low spots. You can also run a file along the length of the studs to knock off any scale and get a better determination if they need to be replaced. They look a little rough in the picture. After you knock off all the scale you’ll be able to see if any of them have points were they’re too thin to take a chance on applying any torque. If they’re too thin they may snap when torqued, or may not properly hold a torque because they’ll stretch too much. They may also break at some future date. You don’t want to go through a lot of work putting everything together and then have to rip it apart next week because one let go.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
> With exception of the broken e
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dean VP <deanvp at att.net>
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sat, 28 Nov 2020 22:21:15 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
> Mitch,
>
>
>
> Do you think the 4 studs are bad enough that they HAVE to be replaced?
>
>
>
> Dean VP
>
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
>
>
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Mitchell Daly
> Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2020 7:30 PM
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
>
>
> Dean,
>
>
>
> Congrats on the successful disassembly. Great pictures. You're definitely on your way to solving the problem. Keep us up to date.
>
>
>
> Mitch
> md31043 at msn.com <mailto:md31043 at msn.com>
>
>
>
>    _____
>
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > on behalf of Dean VP <deanvp at att.net <mailto:deanvp at att.net> >
> Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2020 9:00 PM
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> >
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
>
>
> Was able to get the Head/Manifold out of the tractor today. Difficult is an understatement. Had to unbolt the head to water pipe but with a little convincing we wedged it out.  Based on available tools I used an air grinder with a small cutoff disk to cut opposite sides off each nut down to thread level;.  Then with a little rounding of edges the available nut breaker was
> used on the remaining part of the nuts.   Heat didn't have any effect that I
> could tell since all I had to use for heat was a propane torch.  The nut breaker helped but what seemed to work the best was to just use a punch to break away the remaining part of the nut. Was able to save all for studs without twisting them off. The studs are a bit worse for wear but I am not about to attempt removing them.  They show water/rust damage and a couple threads were damaged when cutting of the nut but it was minor so I think all
> 4 studs will still do the job.   Will chase the threads, thread one stud
> further down and clean up the ends to all be uniform.  So I think I dodged a bullet on the studs.
>
>
>
> The manifold mating surface to the head looked ok but need to clean it up. I didn't detect any gasket leakage between the intake and exhaust side of the manifold gasket.  So. Where was the leakage between the intake and exhaust.
> Yes, testing the manifold under pressure on the intake there is leakage to the exhaust side. So this whole exercise was not for naught.  So a replacement manifold is needed. It is not obvious where it is leaking.  The manifold is in far better shape internally than I expected.  It is going to take some kind of bore scope to find the hole which isn't very big.
>
>
>
> The head is in far better shape than I expected. My guess is that the head has been off recently and by the lack of carbon deposits and the initial appearance of the valve heads this engine has been worked on not too long ago.  The valves don't appear to have been ground thin but will do some
> inspection tomorrow on the valve surfaces.   Have a valve compressor
> available. Would like to see if I can find out why one cylinder registered
> 10% lower compression than the other.   Hopefully, I can find that a valve
> or two needs regrinding to answer that question.   The tractor has never
> belched blue smoke of any kind  and the only smoke I have seen is black smoke from too much gas. One side of the head combustion chamber surface is a little oily. Need to chase that down.
>
>
>
> Here are some pictures of the head and manifold. I don't know what the pictures limits are here on ATIS sop I will try three pictures and if that don't work I'll drop down to one at a time
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dean VP
>
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
>
>
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > On Behalf Of Dean VP
> Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 9:01 PM
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> >
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
>
>
> Brice,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the tip. That is similar to a previous suggestion here on ATIS.
> Hopefully I will be able to start attacking these nuts tomorrow.
>
>
>
>
>
> Dean VP
>
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
>
>
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> <mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> > On Behalf Of Brice Adams
> Sent: Friday, November 27, 2020 8:15 PM
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> >
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
>
>
>
> Dean,
>
> After 3 H and 2 B manifold replacements the best technique I've found for trying to save the studs is to cut off one side of the nut as close to the threads as I can with a Dremel cutoff tool then either grind or file as close to the stud threads as I can.
>
> Repeatedly heat and cool the remainder of the nut until I can get it to turn with vice grips.
>
> Brice
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 27, 2020 at 8:53 PM Dean VP <deanvp at att.net <mailto:deanvp at att.net> > wrote:
>
> I have one of those Craftsman stud removal tools that has a hole through two parallel  flanges with a gripper type cam sandwiched in between, You use a 1/2" breaker bar on the cam and supposedly it will give you the grip that is needed to turn the stud out.  Of coursed mine in the shop in WA and I'm 1600 miles from it.  I need to check if my friend has one of those tools. He has more Craftsman tools than God.  A good pipe Wrench will get close to doing the same thing.  My plan is to not try to remove the studs unless they HAVE to be replaced. My first attack it to try to get the 4 nuts off of the 4 studs w/o twisting off the studs. Then slide the manifold up four inches and
> off.   Haven't been able to work on it the last two days but hope to get
> back at it tomorrow.
>
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
>
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