[AT] Spark Plug to Compression Tester adapter

Mark Greer magreer67 at gmail.com
Mon Nov 16 07:20:36 PST 2020


Poking around the Brillman website, I came across this gem...
https://brillman.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Brillman-Catalog-2020.pdf
Enjoy!
Mark Greer

On Sun, Nov 15, 2020 at 11:31 PM Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:

> For those of you who have tractors with 7/8” 18 TPI spark plugs and would
> like to do a compression test with the low cost compression testers kits
> sold today  you are SOL.  All the threaded as well as rubber stopper
> adapters are too small. The biggest is 18MM. 7/8” is equivalent to just
> over 22mm.  Doing a compression test is impossible on a hand start tractor
> with that set up unless you can buy an adapter from 7/8” to one of the
> metric adapters in the compression tester kit.   I just found a company
> Billman Company that sells a few of those adapters of various sizes
> including one from 7/8” to 14 mm.
>
> https://brillman.com/?s=spark+plug+adapter&post_type=product
>
>
>
> I was thinking I was going to have to make one out of the compression kit
> rubber stopper adapter and braze it into the inside of a gutted sparkplug.
> This is a better solution in my mind.  When I receive this I will be able
> to test the compression on my Hand start 1935 JD B. Will be able to compare
> cylinders by hand cranking, using a belt on the pulley or pulling it in
> gear.   My current guess is the compression on cylinder # 2  is about half
> of #1 by the feel on the flywheel. We will soon find out.
>
>
>
> I also want to make sure that the manifold isn’t rusted out or leaking
> from the intake side to the exhaust side. So I made an adapter plate that
> fists on the carburetor intake side of the manifold and then drilled and
> tapped a ¼” Pipe thread and installed a quick connect air fitting.  With
> the adapter plate bolted to the carburetor inlet to the manifold I can add
> air pressure to the intake side of the manifold.  If things were perfect I
> should get no air leakage into the exhaust side but the intake valves may
> open slightly and allow air pressure into the combustion chamber.  With the
> flywheel at TDC on #! Cylinder all the valves should be closed.  If I get a
> bunch of air pressure into the exhaust I know I have a manifold problem. If
> that passes then if  the intake valves open  and I get no leakage out of
> the exhaust side than I know I have a good manifold and two good exhaust
> valves.  If I get some leakage out the exhaust then I probably have exhaust
> valve problems.
>
>
>
>
>
> Have to get the B out of winter storage here and start doing these tests.
> I brought 4 restored DLTX-10 Carburetors and 4 Magneto’s along so I can
> isolate if either one of those are causing me problems.   I hope I don’t
> have to pull the head on this tractor but my gut tells me that will be what
> happens as a result of the tests. Pulling manifolds on one of these old
> tractors is an exercise that usually ends up with 4 broken off studs in the
> head.  Broken off bolts don’t scare me like they used to but it takes a
> whole bunch of time and frustration to get everything cleaned up again
> ready for new studs. .  Maybe for once I will get lucky and not have to do
> major surgery.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dean VP
>
> Apache Junction, AZ
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