[AT] Project Updates '49 A, '51 A, and '47 B (STEVE ALLEN)

[Cecil Bearden]

here is a distributor conversion.  I don't think it is a factory 
conversion, maybe it is.. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-John-Deere-A-JD-tractor-distributor-conversion-assembly-Wico/372632819184?hash=item56c2a595f0:g:72gAAOSwRhFbxqaK
Cecil

On 5/11/2020 9:20 AM, Cecil Bearden wrote:
> There are a lot of magnetos and parts on Ebay under John Deere A magneto.
> Cecil
>
> On 5/11/2020 9:14 AM, szabelski at wildblue.net wrote:
>> Steve,
>>
>> Just had a thought, is the rotor rotating if you crank the engine? 
>> Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine over while watching 
>> the rotor. If it doesn’t rotate, you have a mechanical issue 
>> somewhere between the timing gears and the rotating magnet that 
>> generates the magnetic field. Again, I’m not familiar with your 
>> tractor, so I don’t know exactly how your magneto is designed and 
>> works. I’m only guessing that it works like all other magnetos that 
>> I’ve worked with.
>>
>> Don’t think you have a timing issue, since you should get a spark at 
>> some point, even if the timing is off.
>>
>> Carl
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
>> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> Sent: Sun, 10 May 2020 20:00:36 -0400 (EDT)
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Project Updates  '49 A, '51 A, and '47 B (STEVE ALLEN)
>>
>> OK, two quick updates that I hope will generate more ideas.
>>
>> '51 A:
>> We're finding a lot of loose, rust scale in the tank.  When I say a 
>> "lot," I don't mean the bottom is covered with it,  But, dangling a 
>> flashlight inside, I saw what appeared to be some "stuff" around the 
>> outlet.  So we used magnets on extendable rods, and pulled out a 
>> couple ounces of scale.  Finally, the magnet came out clean.  Ran the 
>> tractor.  More starvation.  Put the magnet back in, more loads of 
>> scale came out.
>>
>> The bottom of the take looks pretty clean, but there are small, dark 
>> patches that I think represent some more or at least places where the 
>> coating (if any) is worn.  did these tanks come with a coating?  
>> Anyway. the fuel flow seems much better as we reduce the amount of 
>> scale in there, but we have more to go.
>>
>> Is there a better cleaning process?  I seem to remember someone 
>> suggesting a powerful magnet near the outlet to catch such crud.  Or 
>> am I remembering something else??
>>
>> '49 A:
>> No spar4k from the mag, either using the plug or, per the manual, a 
>> wire with an 1/8" gap to ground.  No spark either one.  I checked 
>> continuity on the points per Dean.  My meter read .5 Ohms with the 
>> points closed and .7 Ohms with them open (separated by a thin piece 
>> of cardboard).  I seem to have good continuity on the cap; visual 
>> inspection shows no cracks, but will have to check that further.  No 
>> continuity between the interior contacts and the center contact, at 
>> least.  No kill switch or other possible ground through the cap or 
>> the case. Rotor clean and checked for proper continuity:  center 
>> button to contact has continuity; no continuity between center button 
>> and the metal plate inside which touches the shaft.
>>
>> Carl:  I don't quite get what you mean by wiring with a coil 
>> replacing the mag.  Could you explain more?
>>
>> Dean:  used some very fine sand paper on the points to clean them.  
>> .5 Ohms with them closed; .7 Ohms with them open (separated by 
>> cardboard).
>>
>> I have another mag, but it hasn't been used in many years; a new cap 
>> is about $60+ shipped; would prefer not to order unless I am sure the 
>> cap is bad.  Do the Ohm readings on the points suggest a problem?
>>
>> Thanks again, all!
>>
>> The "original" Steve Allen
>> Doing my part to keep the list active.
>>
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