[AT] Project Updates '49 A, '51 A, and '47 B (STEVE ALLEN)

[szabelski at wildblue.net]

Steve,

Just had a thought, is the rotor rotating if you crank the engine? Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine over while watching the rotor. If it doesn’t rotate, you have a mechanical issue somewhere between the timing gears and the rotating magnet that generates the magnetic field. Again, I’m not familiar with your tractor, so I don’t know exactly how your magneto is designed and works. I’m only guessing that it works like all other magnetos that I’ve worked with.

Don’t think you have a timing issue, since you should get a spark at some point, even if the timing is off.

Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Sun, 10 May 2020 20:00:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [AT] Project Updates  '49 A, '51 A, and '47 B (STEVE ALLEN)

OK, two quick updates that I hope will generate more ideas.

'51 A:
We're finding a lot of loose, rust scale in the tank.  When I say a "lot," I don't mean the bottom is covered with it,  But, dangling a flashlight inside, I saw what appeared to be some "stuff" around the outlet.  So we used magnets on extendable rods, and pulled out a couple ounces of scale.  Finally, the magnet came out clean.  Ran the tractor.  More starvation.  Put the magnet back in, more loads of scale came out.  

The bottom of the take looks pretty clean, but there are small, dark patches that I think represent some more or at least places where the coating (if any) is worn.  did these tanks come with a coating?  Anyway. the fuel flow seems much better as we reduce the amount of scale in there, but we have more to go.  

Is there a better cleaning process?  I seem to remember someone suggesting a powerful magnet near the outlet to catch such crud.  Or am I remembering something else??

'49 A:
No spar4k from the mag, either using the plug or, per the manual, a wire with an 1/8" gap to ground.  No spark either one.  I checked continuity on the points per Dean.  My meter read .5 Ohms with the points closed and .7 Ohms with them open (separated by a thin piece of cardboard).  I seem to have good continuity on the cap; visual inspection shows no cracks, but will have to check that further.  No continuity between the interior contacts and the center contact, at least.  No kill switch or other possible ground through the cap or the case.  Rotor clean and checked for proper continuity:  center button to contact has continuity; no continuity between center button and the metal plate inside which touches the shaft.

Carl:  I don't quite get what you mean by wiring with a coil replacing the mag.  Could you explain more?

Dean:  used some very fine sand paper on the points to clean them.  .5 Ohms with them closed; .7 Ohms with them open (separated by cardboard).  

I have another mag, but it hasn't been used in many years; a new cap is about $60+ shipped; would prefer not to order unless I am sure the cap is bad.  Do the Ohm readings on the points suggest a problem?

Thanks again, all!

The "original" Steve Allen
Doing my part to keep the list active.

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