[AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the Resurrection Begin!

Wed Mar 18 06:51:52 PDT 2020

Steve,

One more thought on the adjuster, don’t be afraid to give the adjuster a good rap on its end with a decent sized hammer/mallet. You’re trying to break the rust between two parts and a good couple of hits can help to fracture any rust. That’s why running an impact wrench back and forth can speed up getting a bolt to turn out. The hammering of the impact wrench helps cause the rust to fracture.

Once you get it to start moving keep running it in and out, just like tapping a hole, until it turns freely. You may run into a point where it will bind again, just run it back in and add some more penetrating oil an then run it out again.

Good luck.

Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: deanvp at att.net
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wed, 18 Mar 2020 08:10:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the Resurrection Begin!

Having to get JD Brake components apart after they have rusted stuck for
years is  one of the tougher jobs you will face. Other than using the method
that Farmer has used successfully the only solution is heat and a lot of it.
I've not used Farmer's method but If you have a chance try it first because
the "heat" method is nothing more than the "brute force" method.  And when I
say heat and a lot of it I mean Acetylene Torch only. I've not had any luck
with anything less.  The castings are so big and heavy on JD that it takes
the power of an Acetylene setup to get the job dome.  Then as others have
suggested heating the casting around the stuck part and then using whatever
appropriate big wrench or pipe wrench is available eventually you will get
it apart. The brake pedal shafts are the worst because they get exposed to
the weather the most.  I've probably unstuck 15 to 20 JD brakes all the way
from JD H's, B's , A's, 50's and 60's and the bigger the tractor the tougher
it gets.   Yes, I live in wet, rusty weather.   Rust stuck is on our table
daily. Unfortunately, some parts are stuck so badly that getting them apart
introduces damage to the part in the process. I have never damaged the brake
casting itself but I have damaged an occasional part when removing it.
Other than Farmer's method I don't know how that can be avoided.   But the
secret it a lot of heat over a prolonged period. There is so much cast metal
it take a while to heat up.  10 minutes of heating with the acetylene torch
is not unusual and have the brake casting firmly mounted in a vice so you
can really put the toque on the part to be removed while the casting is hot.
Repeated heating and cooling cycles sometimes are required. It is a tough,
nasty job. Takes big wrenches and aggressive actions. I tend to do brakes in
bunches as I want to get the nasty job out of the way and when I find a
particular technique that works I want to repeat it as often as possible
right now while I remembered it.  And BTW, I have NEVER and I can say this
with a great amount of conviction. I have NEVER had a JD Brake assembly come
loose using only penetrating fluid and I've tried a few different ones..
Heat is the answer.  You make get lucky  and yours may not be as badly stuck
as some but be prepared for the worst. 

BTW, in later JD Model tractors, after the A,   JD introduced rubber "O"
rings on the brake shafts added grease zerks to try to reduce the amount of
moisture that gets into the shaft/casting area. It worked to a degree but we
all know what happens to rubber "O" rings exposed to the weather and the
grease zerks were well hidden to the casual maintenance that was often not
done on the farm.    As long as the tractor was used daily and stored inside
most of the issues never showed up but let a tractor sit for a few years
outside and you have the recipe for a disaster.  The redeeming part of JD is
the casting and parts are big and harder to damage.   In my one time
experience of restoring a Farmal Cub I had never twisted off so many small
rusted stuck bolts and screws as I did on the @#$%^&*( Cub.  At least on JD
Waterloo built tractors you are dealing with adult sized bolts and screws. 

Ok, so now that I have scared you about the job take it on knowing that you
can be successful using aggressive tools. In most cases it probably would be
wise to not have Wife, Children or Grandchildren ears to be within hearing
range. 

Dean VP
Apache Junction, AZ

-----Original Message-----
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of STEVE ALLEN
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2020 5:06 AM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the Resurrection
Begin!

Dean's message remind me that I need to report on my progress.

Despite rain, cold, and competing responsibilities, the A is in my driveway.
I suspect that the distributor will be the least of my worries.

Priorities:
-Unstick the right brake.  In order to get the tractor off the trailer, I
had to pull the brake shaft out of the drive housing.  The adjuster, at the
least, is stuck.  Unfortunately, the disassembly process requires a working
adjuster (according to the book).  I am soaking it with penetrant and
waiting on some dry weather to coincide with being off work.  since there is
virtually no gap between the brake unit/backing plate and the drum with no
other provision made for loosening the shoes, I am not sure how I will get
the unit/shoes out of the drum.  I wish I could see inside.
-Old gas.  The tractor must have sat for two years with gas in the carb.
Opening the drain cock and turning on the valve at the sediment bowl gives
me just a drip--a varnish-smelling drip.  The sediment bowl is new.  I am
going to start taking pieces apart till I find the blockage.  If I am
unexpectedly blessed, it will be in the line or one of the valves.  It could
be crap in the tank, but I don't think so as fuel seems to flow into the
sediment bowl OK.  I dread trying to take the carb apart because of the real
possibility of breaking off the stem inside the carb bowl.  I am told it ran
not long ago . . . .   The definition of "long" is somewhat amorphous.
-Clean up all the electrical connections.  Everything is there and in place,
including a new generator belt and complete wiring and connections.  Most of
the connections are corroded, however, and will need cleaning.  The battery
needs to come out, and a new ground strap needs to be installed--the current
replacement is both too small and wrongly mounted.  It should be bolted tot
he case at the seat/battery box mount but is only bolted to the box itself.
-Check all fluids.  Quick inspection reveals no coolant in the system.  I
haven't checked the oil or drive fluid yet, and I first need to drain the
bottom of the crankcase and final drive of any condensation/leakage.

Plusses include straight sheet metal, brand new front tires, complete
condition, and evidence of maintenance and minimal wear.  The paint is only
a few years old and already fading, but the job is thorough if not showy.
The rear ties are Goodyear Sure Grip Diamonds, but they are in very poor
shape from dry rot.  I think I can brush hog with them--they hold air--but I
hesitate to plow.  At least the rear wheels (cast) are in very good
shape--not a hint of fluid weight rot.

Thanks again for all the info so far, and I will keep the list informed!

The "original" Steve Allen
Middle -o'-Nowhere, MO with a 2nd JD A (670,xxx).

----- Original Message -----
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 10:47:25 -0700
From: <deanvp at att.net>
To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
	<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto
Message-ID: <007301d5fbba$f54d2460$dfe76d20$@att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Our Show is over so I can now get back to this. All JD Two Cylinder tractors
with batteries left the factory with a positive ground system. Whether the
tractor is still configured that way is a crap shoot. I haven?t looked at
Pertronix systems for years so I am completely out of date. Early on they
did not produce Positive ground systems for the JD tractors. In those days
in order to use their Electronic ignition systems the tractor had to be
converted to a negative ground system.  If they are producing positive
ground systems now that is good news. But ?. Using their web site to find an
applicable system for a JD Model A is an extreme exercise in futility.  I
would suggest contacting the owner of https://brillman.com/ to get an  up to
date picture of what might be available from Pertronix for your particular
Electronic Ignition requirement.

However, a properly repaired Magneto or Distributor will work just fine on
your JD A.  For Magneto parts and real kneadable information I like working
with http://www.magnetoparts.com/index.html  Bill is an Electrical Engineer
that does his Magneto stuff as a side business. Evenings and weekends.  

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ
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