[AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the Resurrection Begin!

Tue Mar 17 07:25:04 PDT 2020

Steve,

One thing that I’ve done to get stuck threaded parts out of a housing was to take a propane torch and heat up the housing where the threaded item was installed. Just concentrate the heat on the housing for 10 to 15 minutes. Keep the torch pointed at one area, it’s not necessary to apply heat all the way around the threaded hole. This will cause the threaded hole in the housing to open up slightly and you should be able to get the adjuster to start turning. No need to get the whole housing heated up, just at the threaded hole.

As an option, soak the adjuster like your doing, but when you try turning it out, work it back and forth with some force. An impact wrench is good for this, but if I’m not wrong, the adjuster is square and you’d have to figure out how to make some kind of square socket for the impact wrench.

Carl

----- Original Message -----
From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Tue, 17 Mar 2020 08:06:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto - NOW: Let the Resurrection Begin!

Dean's message remind me that I need to report on my progress.

Despite rain, cold, and competing responsibilities, the A is in my driveway.  I suspect that the distributor will be the least of my worries.

Priorities:
-Unstick the right brake.  In order to get the tractor off the trailer, I had to pull the brake shaft out of the drive housing.  The adjuster, at the least, is stuck.  Unfortunately, the disassembly process requires a working adjuster (according to the book).  I am soaking it with penetrant and waiting on some dry weather to coincide with being off work.  since there is virtually no gap between the brake unit/backing plate and the drum with no other provision made for loosening the shoes, I am not sure how I will get the unit/shoes out of the drum.  I wish I could see inside.
-Old gas.  The tractor must have sat for two years with gas in the carb.  Opening the drain cock and turning on the valve at the sediment bowl gives me just a drip--a varnish-smelling drip.  The sediment bowl is new.  I am going to start taking pieces apart till I find the blockage.  If I am unexpectedly blessed, it will be in the line or one of the valves.  It could be crap in the tank, but I don't think so as fuel seems to flow into the sediment bowl OK.  I dread trying to take the carb apart because of the real possibility of breaking off the stem inside the carb bowl.  I am told it ran not long ago . . . .   The definition of "long" is somewhat amorphous.
-Clean up all the electrical connections.  Everything is there and in place, including a new generator belt and complete wiring and connections.  Most of the connections are corroded, however, and will need cleaning.  The battery needs to come out, and a new ground strap needs to be installed--the current replacement is both too small and wrongly mounted.  It should be bolted tot he case at the seat/battery box mount but is only bolted to the box itself.
-Check all fluids.  Quick inspection reveals no coolant in the system.  I haven't checked the oil or drive fluid yet, and I first need to drain the bottom of the crankcase and final drive of any condensation/leakage.

Plusses include straight sheet metal, brand new front tires, complete condition, and evidence of maintenance and minimal wear.  The paint is only a few years old and already fading, but the job is thorough if not showy.  The rear ties are Goodyear Sure Grip Diamonds, but they are in very poor shape from dry rot.  I think I can brush hog with them--they hold air--but I hesitate to plow.  At least the rear wheels (cast) are in very good shape--not a hint of fluid weight rot.

Thanks again for all the info so far, and I will keep the list informed!

The "original" Steve Allen
Middle -o'-Nowhere, MO with a 2nd JD A (670,xxx).

----- Original Message -----
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 10:47:25 -0700
From: <deanvp at att.net>
To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
	<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] JD Distributor vs. Magneto
Message-ID: <007301d5fbba$f54d2460$dfe76d20$@att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Our Show is over so I can now get back to this. All JD Two Cylinder tractors with batteries left the factory with a positive ground system. Whether the tractor is still configured that way is a crap shoot. I haven?t looked at Pertronix systems for years so I am completely out of date. Early on they did not produce Positive ground systems for the JD tractors. In those days in order to use their Electronic ignition systems the tractor had to be converted to a negative ground system.  If they are producing positive ground systems now that is good news. But ?. Using their web site to find an applicable system for a JD Model A is an extreme exercise in futility.  I would suggest contacting the owner of https://brillman.com/ to get an  up to date picture of what might be available from Pertronix for your particular Electronic Ignition requirement.

However, a properly repaired Magneto or Distributor will work just fine on your JD A.  For Magneto parts and real kneadable information I like working with http://www.magnetoparts.com/index.html  Bill is an Electrical Engineer that does his Magneto stuff as a side business. Evenings and weekends.  

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ
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