[AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES

Bill Brueck bill at apluscomputer.com
Tue Jun 30 21:43:19 PDT 2020


Interesting question and comment about flywheel and crankshaft weights.  And I’ve been wondering about flywheel weights as I have a G and a 70 that need to come apart sometime soon.  As a younger man I would have tackled them, but they’ll be managed with a hoist now.  The older I get the better I was…

The Deere Master Parts Index, last published about 1970,  has the weight of many or most parts, I suppose to help in estimating shipping cost.  An online version of this catalog is available at www.b2parts.com<http://www.b2parts.com>.  If you use the online parts index, note that the user ID and password are contained in the explanatory material at the entry page.

Anyway, following are weights for a sampling of 2-cylinder engines.  I tried to use the later models for the letter series, although the entry for some of them was missing the weight information so I reverted to an earlier model of the same tractor.

Regarding the crankshaft weight contributing to the inertia, remember that the flywheel inertia is a lot more the further the weight is from the center.  Thus although the crankshaft is substantial in weight, it’s close in and doesn’t contribute proportionally to the flywheel effect.  The D flywheel below isn’t one of the heavier ones but as I look at my D the flywheel is substantially larger in diameter than any of the others.


Model

FW

FW #

Crank

Crank #

B

AB3844R

113

AB2752R

60

A

AA2367R

155

AA3926R

89

G

AF689R

181

AF1314R

112

D

AD852R

145

AD838R

185

50

AB3844R

113

AB4684R

65

60

AA4240R

Missing entry

AA6009R

91

70

AF1646R

181

AF1366R

133

70D

AF2194R

185

AF3748R

144

720

AF2609R

176

AF2730R

160

























B²

Bill Brueck

Pine Island, MN

Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.



-----Original Message-----
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Mark Johnson
Sent: Friday, June 19, 2020 6:58 AM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES



110 lbs for a Deere flywheel seems about right. The weight of the flywheel is almost independent of the engine size...730 flywheels aren't much over 100 lbs either. Apparently as the engines get bigger, the extra mass in the crankshaft provides enough moment of inertia to keep things running. Does anyone here remember how much the crankshafts weight in various larger two-cylinder engines? I know they aren't featherweights, given that the rod journals on a 620/630/60/G are about 4" in diameter.



My recollection is that one stout feller can take one off, but it took two of us to put one on! The only task I can remember that was worse was replacing the main reduction gear, which on a 730 is 'interference fit'

- you have to heat the gear in hot oil to get it to slide onto the crankshaft! It's probably the same on the 620/630 but I didn't happen to be around when they (Pop & Grandpa) rebuilt that one. I do have a used

620 connecting rod in my junk iron collection.



Mark J



Columbia MO





On 6/18/2020 8:44 PM, lcmason at uslink.net<mailto:lcmason at uslink.net> wrote:

> I had a JD 520 that had a cracked flywheel. It also made a bad noise.

> It was not hitting anything, just shifting slightly on the shaft, It

> is similar to the noise that would occur if the flywheel was not

> tightened enough. It was quite a few years ago, and the flywheel

> didn't feel too heavy coming off, but the replacement seemed a lot

> heavier once I saw the shipping weight (110 lbs???) Larry Mason

> Hackensack MN

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: szabelski at wildblue.net<mailto:szabelski at wildblue.net>

> To: "Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group"

> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>>

> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2020 7:27:36 PM

> Subject: Re: [AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES

>

> My bet is that you’re correct and that there is some displacement and that nut indicates it is where the most displacement occurs. That’s probably why the cracks and why the nut is beat up. Do you know what it was hitting against? I’d take a good look and see what it was hitting to make sure nothing else is damaged.

>

> Probably explains the clutch burning also.

>

>

> Carl

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net<mailto:steveallen855 at centurytel.net>>

> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>

> Sent: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 20:08:07 -0400 (EDT)

> Subject: [AT] John Deere Projects UPDATES

>

> Well, gents, I have another update in the long saga.

>

> Let's begin with the '51 A.  I acquired a mesh nozzle to go over the inlet of the sediment bowl so that I could pull the lawnmower tank off the side (I was afraid of catching it on a tree limb while working) until we can pull the tank to clean it right.  It is a tall, fine mesh that keeps the crud out, and, when we used the tractor, it worked very well:  plenty of gas, no clogging the inlet.  Not the permanent solution but a workable one.  Tractor did a great job finishing up the brush-hogging.  I still need to replace the points.

>

> Now, the '49 A.  I thought I had bought a set of points for it, but I was wrong.  I did get a cap, however, and, after cleaning up the old points as well as I could and replacing the gap, we had a good spark.  The old boy cranked up on the third or fourth revolution.  Spiffy!

>

> We pulled it out to run it some, and it seemed that there was a hammering in the engine.  There has always been a sensation of that, but it seemed obviously more apparent to me.  We did just a little work, but it seemed to be getting worse.  Also, the clutch was smoking when  it was disengaged.  No slipping, no noise, and it snapped in and out just fine, but, when disengaged, it smoked.  So we parked it.  Today, I had my son pull the flywheel cover off today, and we discovered the hammering problem (at least I'll bet):  Two cracks.  If the pic comes through, you should be able to see them near the lower, right nut.  there is obvious displacement of the casting, so I'll bet that puppy is loose on there.

>

> So now we need to change the flywheel.  Fortunately, I have one.  We just need to figure out how to handle it (and also to set it in place correctly).

>

> Briefly on the '47 B:  We need to test the starter and reinstall.  The generator is probably no good, so we'll just disconnect it.  I want to put good batt cables on it.  We'll probably work on it as we prepare to replace the flywheel on the '49.

>

> It's always somethin', ain't it?

>

> The "original" Steve Allen

>

> _______________________________________________

> AT mailing list

> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:AT at lists.antique-tractor.com>

> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com

> _______________________________________________

> AT mailing list

> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:AT at lists.antique-tractor.com>

> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com

_______________________________________________

AT mailing list

AT at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:AT at lists.antique-tractor.com>

http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.antique-tractor.com/pipermail/at-antique-tractor.com/attachments/20200701/0df2a5df/attachment.htm>


More information about the AT mailing list