[AT] Cub - Update

[John Hall]

I've thought about getting some of those bolts for replacements/repairs. 
Cousin runs them on grain header--rocky land and soybeans are a bad 
combo. Will they clear standard "hold downs"?

John Hall

On 7/6/2020 10:22 AM, Aaron Dickinson wrote:
> I will still replace sections on a knife, whole replacement knife is 
> nicer, but I don’t rivet them anymore I use section bolts. First used 
> the bolts on combine sections and thought why not mower? The nut 
> sticks up a little more than rivits, but I don’t have any problems 
> mowing my alfalfa/grass hay.
>
> Aaron Dickinson
> Mason, Michigan
>
> *From:* John Hall <mailto:jtchall at nc.rr.com>
> *Sent:* ‎Monday‎, ‎July‎ ‎6‎, ‎2020 ‎7‎:‎42‎ ‎AM
> *To:* Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group 
> <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
> Sickle mowers can be a pain.
>
> First off keep anything you don't want to cut from the area in between
> the guards--especially when raising and lowering the blade/working on
> mower. I always grab by the back of the blade or the heavy cast piece
> out on the end.
>
> Second, run the sickle mower for edge/ditch trimming first. They don't
> like thatch/debris form rotary mowers, tend to bunch up right where the
> blade bolts on. Also if you head into a field that was previously
> overgrown and has been bushogged while leaving large clumps, you are
> going to hate life as the blade will choke up often. Sometimes you can
> hold the blade up or install a clipping wheel on the end to manage this
> situation.
>
> Third, they either are in mowing condition, or not. Unlike a rotary
> mower with dull blades that you can limp along with, these things tend
> to be all or nothing. One broke guard or section and it just plain won't
> work. I have found it cheaper and easier to NOT put new ledger plates in
> the guards replace the whole assembly. Also when the blade is worn out,
> I order a new assembly instead of changing all those sections. Lot of 80
> year old guys will talk about how easy it is to do, but they aren't
> doing it. Also they are basing it on their memory of doing it in 1975
> when parts were more pricey, Its not that bad to buy a complete blade
> sent to your house ready to change out. FWIW, I have one of those tools
> you brad rivets with, works great if you break a section and want to fix
> it in the machine.
>
> Here is where I get my parts from if I have to "overhaul" a cutterbar.
> Last one I did was a 7' IH two years ago. 
> https://www.cuttingcomponents.com/
>
> Any kind of grass/weed/vine these things do great in. Small trees much
> more than a couple feet tall and you risk breaking a section and
> possibly a guard---or even the blade. Be sure to ask for whatever spare
> parts the guy has to go with it.
>
> You should be able to adjust the pitch of the blade, but more than
> likely its already set up OK. I'd try it first.
>
> I'm sure you know, but to save some cussing--if one of the guard bolts
> has to be pulled off and the square doesn't want to stay in the  hole
> (think plow bolt), don't use your thumb to hold it in!!!
>
> John Hall
>
>
>
> On 7/6/2020 6:09 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> > I've never run a sickle mower, so there's going to be some fun with
> > experimentation.  I keep about 3 acres of our 15 mowed; the rest is
> > forest and wetlands.  I have a zero-turn for the lawn-like areas, and
> > a DR Brush mower (mini walk-behind bushhog) for the coarse areas.  I'm
> > told some of this property was cow pasture several decades ago.  The
> > house was built in 1990, and when we purchased in 2002, the old
> > pastureland had disappeared under heavy overgrowth of the finest
> > invasives New England has to offer:  autumn olive & multiflora rose,
> > that seem to like to grow together in clumps, plus bittersweet, poison
> > ivy, and wild grape.  We've been slowly clearing bit by bit ever
> > since, and as soon as a patch of ground is opened up, grasses
> > magically re-appear.  This is how I end up with 3 acres that now have
> > to be clipped or the invasives will return.  Nothing is really flat,
> > but then again we don't have serious slopes either. Rocks, yes,
> > multitudes. They're generally of the "tip of the iceberg" variety,
> > appearing flattish and roundish and only protruding a couple inches.
> > I know the location intimately of every single one that interferes
> > with a mower.  I think some of the coarse areas may work for the
> > sickle.  I suppose the guards will ride up and over those flattish
> > rocks, seems that is the intent of the design.
> >
> > SO
> >
> >
>
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