[AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt

[szabelski at wildblue.net]

Typical exhaust temperatures for a gasoline engines are 250 - 300C degrees, diesel engines are around 500 - 700C degrees. It does somewhat depend on what RPM your running at and how much work you’re doing with the engine.

Carl


----- Original Message -----
From: Dean VP <deanvp at att.net>
To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 11:01:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt

I suspect manifold temperatures get quite a bit hotter than 150 degrees.

 

Dean VP

Apache Junction, AZ

 

From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Howard Pletcher
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2020 8:49 AM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt

 

While I am generally skeptical of any facebook ad, I just saw one for a metal repair paste that is supposedly good for temperatures up to 150 degrees that sounds like it might be good for a manifold repair although I'm not sure if it would last on and exhaust manifold.

 

https://mimmpeach.com/search?q=metal+repair+paste

 

Howard

 

On Tue, Dec 15, 2020 at 10:24 AM <szabelski at wildblue.net <mailto:szabelski at wildblue.net> > wrote:

If you want a simple fix, mix up a little concrete and pack it in and around the crack, then wrap a couple of pieces of wire around it to hold it in place when dries.  It may not fully stick but it should provide some level of sealing and noise reduction. 

Carl


----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Becker <mr.jebecker at gmail.com <mailto:mr.jebecker at gmail.com> >
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
Sent: Tue, 15 Dec 2020 09:56:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt

A temporary patch?  Wrap a tin can around it and hold it with wire or a hose clamp.  It is one of the few options that won’t melt.

Jim Becker

From: k7jdj at aol.com <mailto:k7jdj at aol.com>  
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2020 10:55 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com>  
Subject: Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt

Might find something at Auto parts store for mending exhaust leaks.  I used some on a LARGE manifold leak and it worked for a short time.


Gary


Renton, WA



-----Original Message-----
From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net <mailto:steveallen855 at centurytel.net> >
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com <mailto:at at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
Sent: Mon, Dec 14, 2020 1:34 pm
Subject: Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt


I appreciate all the feedback on the manifold hole, gentlemen!


Many of the suggestions appear to me to depend on having the manifold off--as Dean notes, that is a dicey proposition.  If I can do something about it temporarily without removing the manifold, it would be a blessing.


Two notes:  yes, the hole is on the exhaust side, and, no, a little extra noise wouldn't hurt anything for now ;-)


The hole is on the inside of the branch.  Looking down from above, think of the casting as almost a W, with the center upward point being the intake and the two outer branches the exhaust (the exhaust pip actually connecting to the right one).  The hole is on the inside edge of the left branch, maybe two and a half inches or a little more between it and the center (intake) branch.  That's not a lot of room to work, and, although I have an acetylene torch, I have little experience with it and none at all welding.  


I think, when we have a chance and some gooder weather, we might try cleaning it up as well as we can and apply the JB Weld, maybe over some lead pushed in place.  


If necessary, we can pull the hood and tank off and move the fan shaft out of the way.  I see some used manifolds for $70 - $90; mew repops from $150 to $220 on eBay, but haven't looked at Sharps or Steiner's yet.  If I have to pull the manifold, I will replace it and not try to fix it:  the cost is too little to risk it.  I would like to avoid having to pull the head given the additional gasket cost (ouch!) and the fact that the tractor has maybe 10 hours on the current head gasket (the repair done nigh on 30 years ago, I guess).  


Need is not pressing.  The '51 A is running well, and the '49 needs its new flywheel during the first window of dry we get.  I can hunt parts and experiment with cheap-'n-easy fixes for now.  


Really, this tractor is now my son's--his grandpa would've wanted that--so he can cogitate on how he wants to proceed.  And I am more than willing to spend HIS money :-D


Oh, and, to answer the other question, I am sure the water in the crank case is condensation.  The tractor is covered, and there was no hint of green in it.  I insist upon cracking the drain plugs on the tractors a couple times/year, and we always get a few drops or more out of most, and we can account for the coolant (heck, the '49 hasn't lost a drop in a LOT of years).


"original" Steve Allen