[AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt

[Stephen Offiler]

You can definitely still get it.  A wide variety of options in fact.
Google search "exhaust wrap".  The old "tailpipe bandage" you're probably
thinking about is $6 on the Walmart site.  Looks like there are newer
options in more sophisticated materials for higher cost.

SO

On Tue, Dec 15, 2020 at 10:47 AM Aaron Dickinson <a_dickinson at att.net>
wrote:

> If you can wrap the area, they did make a tailpipe repair tape that you
> wrapped around a vehicle tailpipe leak then the heat of the exhust fused it
> down, don’t know if they still make it or not.
>
>
>
> *From:* Jim Becker <mr.jebecker at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* ‎Tuesday‎, ‎December‎ ‎15‎, ‎2020 ‎9‎:‎56‎ ‎AM
> *To:* Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
> A temporary patch?  Wrap a tin can around it and hold it with wire or a
> hose clamp.  It is one of the few options that won’t melt.
>
> Jim Becker
>
> *From:* k7jdj at aol.com
> *Sent:* Monday, December 14, 2020 10:55 PM
> *To:* at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> *Subject:* Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt
>
> Might find something at Auto parts store for mending exhaust leaks.  I
> used some on a LARGE manifold leak and it worked for a short time.
>
> Gary
>
> Renton, WA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Sent: Mon, Dec 14, 2020 1:34 pm
> Subject: Re: [AT] Update: '47 B - First starting attempt
>
> I appreciate all the feedback on the manifold hole, gentlemen!
>
> Many of the suggestions appear to me to depend on having the manifold
> off--as Dean notes, that is a dicey proposition.  If I can do something
> about it temporarily without removing the manifold, it would be a blessing.
>
> Two notes:  yes, the hole is on the exhaust side, and, no, a little extra
> noise wouldn't hurt anything for now ;-)
>
> The hole is on the inside of the branch.  Looking down from above, think
> of the casting as almost a W, with the center upward point being the intake
> and the two outer branches the exhaust (the exhaust pip actually connecting
> to the right one).  The hole is on the inside edge of the left branch,
> maybe two and a half inches or a little more between it and the center
> (intake) branch.  That's not a lot of room to work, and, although I have an
> acetylene torch, I have little experience with it and none at all welding.
>
> I think, when we have a chance and some gooder weather, we might try
> cleaning it up as well as we can and apply the JB Weld, maybe over some
> lead pushed in place.
>
> If necessary, we can pull the hood and tank off and move the fan shaft out
> of the way.  I see some used manifolds for $70 - $90; mew repops from $150
> to $220 on eBay, but haven't looked at Sharps or Steiner's yet.  If I have
> to pull the manifold, I will replace it and not try to fix it:  the cost is
> too little to risk it.  I would like to avoid having to pull the head given
> the additional gasket cost (ouch!) and the fact that the tractor has maybe
> 10 hours on the current head gasket (the repair done nigh on 30 years ago,
> I guess).
>
> Need is not pressing.  The '51 A is running well, and the '49 needs its
> new flywheel during the first window of dry we get.  I can hunt parts and
> experiment with cheap-'n-easy fixes for now.
>
> Really, this tractor is now my son's--his grandpa would've wanted that--so
> he can cogitate on how he wants to proceed.  And I am more than willing to
> spend HIS money :-D
>
> Oh, and, to answer the other question, I am sure the water in the crank
> case is condensation.  The tractor is covered, and there was no hint of
> green in it.  I insist upon cracking the drain plugs on the tractors a
> couple times/year, and we always get a few drops or more out of most, and
> we can account for the coolant (heck, the '49 hasn't lost a drop in a LOT
> of years).
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
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