[AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.

[Spencer Yost]

If you continue to have trouble getting call-backs you may want to consider expanding your search area since shipping just a head would be affordable(albeit not ideal).    Did that with a straight 6 Ford head one time when the local shops were all 8-16 weeks behind and I needed it faster.  

Spencer

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 30, 2020, at 10:17 PM, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> 
> Cecil/Stcve,
> 
> I spent a portion of the day trying to find a machine shop to do the work on
> my JD B head. Doing really well..... Not a single person/company has called
> back.  Not the way I wanted to start the day.
> 
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Steve W.
> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 8:03 PM
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 1935 JD B Testing progress.
> 
> Cecil Bearden wrote:
>> The way those work is ther is a reamer/knurler you run through the 
>> guide, then  insert the sleeve, then run a burnisher/expander through.
>> I have a bit for an air hammer that drives the burnisher.   I first 
>> started using a hammer.  I get a lot of flack from the "professional 
>> Engine rebuilders" about these only being 0.030 thick.  A 0.010 wear 
>> on a guide will create a bad seal on a valve, so when the guides are 
>> worn
>> 0.010 or 0.015 they are shot.. Just my $0.02.......  I have had some 
>> of my small block chevy rebuilds go over 200K miles.  I also have used 
>> these on old continental engines and they have outlasted the machine
>> they were on...   My Dad one time said it was ridiculous for us to buy a 
>> rebuilt short block when we always had to rebuild them before 
>> installation or soon after..    I had a replacement engine from Pep Boys 
>> that had a lifter come apart (350 chev. )  on the way to Chicago from 
>> OK.    Pep Boys agreed to give me a new short block. Mainly because I 
>> had worked with the ass't mgr years prior.  I opened up the new engine 
>> and had to replace the lifters, valves, timing chain and gears, and bore
>> the guide and line them.   They reground the lifters, valves, and 
>> re-used timing chains and gears.  They had installed an oversize valve 
>> guide after grinding the valve stem.  Lifters and valves are case
> hardened..
>> 
>> This is the reason I will not buy a rebuilt engine..
>> 
>> Cecil
>> 
> 
> I have a similar setup in the old tools box, one is only the knurler set up
> while the other has the option to do bronze liners. Someplace I still have a
> set to do small engines as well, back when you could still get the parts for
> them !!
> Even have a piston knurler in there someplace.
> 
> --
> Steve W.
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>