[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net) (STEVE ALLEN)

szabelski at wildblue.net szabelski at wildblue.net
Wed Apr 22 15:29:14 PDT 2020


Fresh our of ideas to answer the fuel problem except to guess that maybe, just maybe, the new assembly is not an exact replacement for your tractor(???). If you still have the old assembly do a one-to-one comparison and see if there’s something different/missing, like a small hole someplace. I’ve seen assemblies that required a detent button the be pushed, or a small screw to be turned, to bleed air out of the system in order to get fuel flowing. Doubt if that is your issue though.


As far as the tire rim, yes you can put different width tires on a rim, within limits. What is important is the bead diameter. You may notice more side wall bulge with a narrower rim, and you may have to up the pressure in order to get the tire to look like the tire with the wider rim. I can put three tire widths on my Cubs rims.

Carl

----- Original Message -----
From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 16:17:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net) (STEVE ALLEN)

I appreciate very much all the time people are taking to answer my questions!

Tyler, you may be on to something.  David, that's a great idea, but no such provision on this model.

Dean, I completely disassembled the sediment bowl unit to ensure it was not plugged up--unlikely, anyway, since it is brand new.  And, yes, I have had both its valve and the carb bowl drain open at the same time.  That's what's maddening.  It should be one, long, open passage.   I am by no means an expert on this stuff, but I have been running my '49 A since 1984 (and the '47 B before that), so I *thought* I had these basic things figured out.  I had never had a brake unit apart, of course, but I have cleaned up and put kits in carbs and such things.  Almost all the work I've done WITH the tractors has been with a brush hog, so I am green (sorry) at the ag stuff.
I just don't get what's happening with this particular fuel system.  I wish the sediment bowl casting that came with the tractor had not broken:  it flowed gas.

On the brake drum:  the shoes were not worn away:  the rivets were a long way from being exposed.  They were dirty and cracked--no doubt ready to crumble, but there were no grooves from exposed rivets.  There was a shallow but perceptible ridge where the shoes didn't ride, but my grinding/sanding work has really reduced it.

Brief update on the '49:  I *may* have found a wheel.  It is 10" not 11", but I am told (I've never swapped tires in this fashion before) that the 11.2 tire will work on either rim.  Is that true?


The "original" Steve Allen

----- Original Message -----
From: at-request at lists.antique-tractor.com
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Sent: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 16:00:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: AT Digest, Vol 27, Issue 24

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: OT - Linux revisited (cgs)
   2. Re: 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
      on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net) (STEVE ALLEN)
   3. Re: 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
      on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net) (Yahoo Mail)
   4. Re: 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
      on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net) (Yahoo Mail)
   5. Re: 2. Re: #'ea JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
      on the #'di A wheels! (deanvp at att.net) (Tyler Juranek)
   6. Re: 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
      on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net) (deanvp at att.net)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 16:04:32 -0400
From: cgs <oxygenfarm at gmail.com>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] OT - Linux revisited
Message-ID: <0bd0ac9c-c727-43a6-e15c-bafdc900901f at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

Repeat: my post to the Linux Mint Forum, a friendly bunch:


On 4/21/20 2:33 PM, Phillip Kelley wrote:
> I have been a lurker here for many years and gained much valuable info 
> regarding tractors and other skills.
>
> The recent thread about installing Linux on an old laptop has prompted 
> me to dust off an old HP dvb6t running 32 bit Windows Vista Home 
> Premium.? I have successively cloned and replaced the hard drive to a 
> 240 GB SSD.? I then downloaded Linux Mint 19.3 (32 bit) ISO to a new 
> 64GB thumb drive.? Attempts to make it bootable failed using both 
> Rufus and Etcher because they don't support Vista.? So I moved the 
> project to my Win 10 laptop and tried Rufus again.? It appears to go 
> through all the steps but ends with an error message and the thumb 
> drive doesn't boot .? Am I making this to complicated?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.? TIA
>
> Phil Kelley - GA
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com

-- 
Charlie

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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 20:09:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) +
	PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)
Message-ID:
	<919742017.96392313.1587514143208.JavaMail.zimbra at centurytel.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

OK, guys.  I will try to answer all questions, and then I have another one of my own.

'51 A:
Got the brake unit back together today but ran out of time to mount it.  Lots of anti-seize on the pins, cam, and spinny parts to keep it all free, and grease in the shaft at the bearing surfaces so that it will not gall before the rear-end oil gets to it.

To answer Dean:  the surface was the inside of the drum, where the shoes ride.  Sorry, but the outside of the drum sometimes looks as raw as the inside.  I didn't mean to imply you were somehow not getting it.  I misread your question.

I started with an air gun to remove the scaly stuff.  Then, we used a rotary tool with a stone wheel and also some crocus cloth to smooth the surface somewhat and to lower the ridge where the shoes didn't ride.  The surface was not perfect by any means, but an hour's worth of rotary and hand work had it looking much better and the ridge much lower.  

I *think* it will be adequate; if anyone sees a fatal objection, don't hesitate to sing out!

Gas.  1)  The drain cock is fine:  it will run gas out when the carb bowl has gas in it.  2) The needle and seat aren't stuck; I know because, when I do get gas to the carb, it will run out the drain cock.  The brass screen inside the gas inlet is clear and clean.  the needle and seat are new, and the float is mobile.  3)  The line is free and clear; in addition to being brand new, I blew it out with my breath, and it was not obstructed.  4)  I took the filter casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and the screen.  I used air to verify that all passages were free.  Summary, there *should* be an open passage all the way from the tank to the drain cock, but gas only flows if I loosen the seal at the sediment bowl.  

I think I have answered all the questions, but I sure seem to be missing something. . . .

'49 A:
Got both wheels off today and took a trip into town to the tire shop.  Bad news.  They can save one but not the other, even with the donor wheel.  There's just not enough good bead left.

So I need a 11 x 38" pressed steel wheel for the '49 A.  Per the A Parts manual:  JD # AA3861 (sub for JD1260R).

I would appreciate ANY leads, but, of course, the closer to MO the better.

Guys, I really appreciate all the help, all the suggestions, all the advice.  Every time you help me over a wall, another looms, but we've gotten past several.  I look forward to the day when the last wall reveals a field on the other side ;-)

One thing is sure:  my son is getting an education, too.

The "original" Steve Allen




------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 01:04:01 +0000 (UTC)
From: Yahoo Mail <walking_tractor at yahoo.com>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) +
	PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)
Message-ID: <978218795.579397.1587517441402 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 Steve,?Something finally came to me.? To back up a little bit, I am by no means a JD expert, not even a little bit.? I understand that least some of the 2 cylinders had an oil pressure operated valve in the sediment bowl assembly.? If so then the engine would need to run to let fuel flow. The tractor starts on what is in the carb until oil pressure builds up.? It was a safety valve type setup to save the engine when it ran out of fuel.? At least that's how it was described to me.David    On Tuesday, April 21, 2020, 08:09:13 PM EDT, STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net> wrote:  
 
 OK, guys.? I will try to answer all questions, and then I have another one of my own.

'51 A:
Got the brake unit back together today but ran out of time to mount it.? Lots of anti-seize on the pins, cam, and spinny parts to keep it all free, and grease in the shaft at the bearing surfaces so that it will not gall before the rear-end oil gets to it.

To answer Dean:? the surface was the inside of the drum, where the shoes ride.? Sorry, but the outside of the drum sometimes looks as raw as the inside.? I didn't mean to imply you were somehow not getting it.? I misread your question.

I started with an air gun to remove the scaly stuff.? Then, we used a rotary tool with a stone wheel and also some crocus cloth to smooth the surface somewhat and to lower the ridge where the shoes didn't ride.? The surface was not perfect by any means, but an hour's worth of rotary and hand work had it looking much better and the ridge much lower.? 

I *think* it will be adequate; if anyone sees a fatal objection, don't hesitate to sing out!

Gas.? 1)? The drain cock is fine:? it will run gas out when the carb bowl has gas in it.? 2) The needle and seat aren't stuck; I know because, when I do get gas to the carb, it will run out the drain cock.? The brass screen inside the gas inlet is clear and clean.? the needle and seat are new, and the float is mobile.? 3)? The line is free and clear; in addition to being brand new, I blew it out with my breath, and it was not obstructed.? 4)? I took the filter casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and the screen.? I used air to verify that all passages were free.? Summary, there *should* be an open passage all the way from the tank to the drain cock, but gas only flows if I loosen the seal at the sediment bowl.? 

I think I have answered all the questions, but I sure seem to be missing something. . . .

'49 A:
Got both wheels off today and took a trip into town to the tire shop.? Bad news.? They can save one but not the other, even with the donor wheel.? There's just not enough good bead left.

So I need a 11 x 38" pressed steel wheel for the '49 A.? Per the A Parts manual:? JD # AA3861 (sub for JD1260R).

I would appreciate ANY leads, but, of course, the closer to MO the better.

Guys, I really appreciate all the help, all the suggestions, all the advice.? Every time you help me over a wall, another looms, but we've gotten past several.? I look forward to the day when the last wall reveals a field on the other side ;-)

One thing is sure:? my son is getting an education, too.

The "original" Steve Allen


_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
  
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 01:06:35 +0000 (UTC)
From: Yahoo Mail <walking_tractor at yahoo.com>
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) +
	PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)
Message-ID: <1257987604.588635.1587517595244 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 Oopsy.? Next to last sentence should have read in part "save the engine when it ran out of OIL".Sorry 'bout that.David
    On Tuesday, April 21, 2020, 09:04:01 PM EDT, Yahoo Mail <walking_tractor at yahoo.com> wrote:  
 
  Steve,?Something finally came to me.? To back up a little bit, I am by no means a JD expert, not even a little bit.? I understand that least some of the 2 cylinders had an oil pressure operated valve in the sediment bowl assembly.? If so then the engine would need to run to let fuel flow. The tractor starts on what is in the carb until oil pressure builds up.? It was a safety valve type setup to save the engine when it ran out of fuel.? At least that's how it was described to me.David    On Tuesday, April 21, 2020, 08:09:13 PM EDT, STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net> wrote:  
 
 OK, guys.? I will try to answer all questions, and then I have another one of my own.

'51 A:
Got the brake unit back together today but ran out of time to mount it.? Lots of anti-seize on the pins, cam, and spinny parts to keep it all free, and grease in the shaft at the bearing surfaces so that it will not gall before the rear-end oil gets to it.

To answer Dean:? the surface was the inside of the drum, where the shoes ride.? Sorry, but the outside of the drum sometimes looks as raw as the inside.? I didn't mean to imply you were somehow not getting it.? I misread your question.

I started with an air gun to remove the scaly stuff.? Then, we used a rotary tool with a stone wheel and also some crocus cloth to smooth the surface somewhat and to lower the ridge where the shoes didn't ride.? The surface was not perfect by any means, but an hour's worth of rotary and hand work had it looking much better and the ridge much lower.? 

I *think* it will be adequate; if anyone sees a fatal objection, don't hesitate to sing out!

Gas.? 1)? The drain cock is fine:? it will run gas out when the carb bowl has gas in it.? 2) The needle and seat aren't stuck; I know because, when I do get gas to the carb, it will run out the drain cock.? The brass screen inside the gas inlet is clear and clean.? the needle and seat are new, and the float is mobile.? 3)? The line is free and clear; in addition to being brand new, I blew it out with my breath, and it was not obstructed.? 4)? I took the filter casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and the screen.? I used air to verify that all passages were free.? Summary, there *should* be an open passage all the way from the tank to the drain cock, but gas only flows if I loosen the seal at the sediment bowl.? 

I think I have answered all the questions, but I sure seem to be missing something. . . .

'49 A:
Got both wheels off today and took a trip into town to the tire shop.? Bad news.? They can save one but not the other, even with the donor wheel.? There's just not enough good bead left.

So I need a 11 x 38" pressed steel wheel for the '49 A.? Per the A Parts manual:? JD # AA3861 (sub for JD1260R).

I would appreciate ANY leads, but, of course, the closer to MO the better.

Guys, I really appreciate all the help, all the suggestions, all the advice.? Every time you help me over a wall, another looms, but we've gotten past several.? I look forward to the day when the last wall reveals a field on the other side ;-)

One thing is sure:? my son is getting an education, too.

The "original" Steve Allen


_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
    
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 22:05:50 -0500
From: Tyler Juranek <tylerpolkaman at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
	<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: #'ea JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) +
	PROGRESS on the #'di A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)
Message-ID:
	<CAOesHmCHHaHhisVKR_uMkBi5WRRVtzzDaR_uCNaGQdftoVOBXA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Hi Steve,
 I am going to chime in with my $0.02. I do not know if this can help,
but I will try anyway.
 On my Oliver 88, (I have since sold it) the sediment bowl was a pain
in the rear when I would take it off to clean now and then.
 The last time I had to do it, that bowl would just drip, drip, drip
and barely fill when I turned the valve on. I would crank it over, and
it would kind of "burp" itself, and then somehow it would start, run,
and I never had a problem after that, and it always filled. So I
wonder if this is kind of like what you're experiencing?
 Just a thought.
 Take Care!
 Tyler Juranek
 IA

On 4/21/20, STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net> wrote:
> OK, guys.  I will try to answer all questions, and then I have another one
> of my own.
>
> '51 A:
> Got the brake unit back together today but ran out of time to mount it.
> Lots of anti-seize on the pins, cam, and spinny parts to keep it all free,
> and grease in the shaft at the bearing surfaces so that it will not gall
> before the rear-end oil gets to it.
>
> To answer Dean:  the surface was the inside of the drum, where the shoes
> ride.  Sorry, but the outside of the drum sometimes looks as raw as the
> inside.  I didn't mean to imply you were somehow not getting it.  I misread
> your question.
>
> I started with an air gun to remove the scaly stuff.  Then, we used a rotary
> tool with a stone wheel and also some crocus cloth to smooth the surface
> somewhat and to lower the ridge where the shoes didn't ride.  The surface
> was not perfect by any means, but an hour's worth of rotary and hand work
> had it looking much better and the ridge much lower.
>
> I *think* it will be adequate; if anyone sees a fatal objection, don't
> hesitate to sing out!
>
> Gas.  1)  The drain cock is fine:  it will run gas out when the carb bowl
> has gas in it.  2) The needle and seat aren't stuck; I know because, when I
> do get gas to the carb, it will run out the drain cock.  The brass screen
> inside the gas inlet is clear and clean.  the needle and seat are new, and
> the float is mobile.  3)  The line is free and clear; in addition to being
> brand new, I blew it out with my breath, and it was not obstructed.  4)  I
> took the filter casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and
> the screen.  I used air to verify that all passages were free.  Summary,
> there *should* be an open passage all the way from the tank to the drain
> cock, but gas only flows if I loosen the seal at the sediment bowl.
>
> I think I have answered all the questions, but I sure seem to be missing
> something. . . .
>
> '49 A:
> Got both wheels off today and took a trip into town to the tire shop.  Bad
> news.  They can save one but not the other, even with the donor wheel.
> There's just not enough good bead left.
>
> So I need a 11 x 38" pressed steel wheel for the '49 A.  Per the A Parts
> manual:  JD # AA3861 (sub for JD1260R).
>
> I would appreciate ANY leads, but, of course, the closer to MO the better.
>
> Guys, I really appreciate all the help, all the suggestions, all the advice.
>  Every time you help me over a wall, another looms, but we've gotten past
> several.  I look forward to the day when the last wall reveals a field on
> the other side ;-)
>
> One thing is sure:  my son is getting an education, too.
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
> http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com
>


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 23:34:54 -0700
From: <deanvp at att.net>
To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
	<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) +
	PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)
Message-ID: <08d401d61870$23575ca0$6a0615e0$@att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

Steve;

I'm getting close to being stumped.  What does this mean: I took the filter
casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and the screen?
Are you referring to the sediment bulb assembly? Answer this question
relative to the gas sediment bulb.  If you leave the carburetor drain valve
open you still have to loosen the sediment bulb to get gas to flow and then
when the bulb fills up then you can tighten the bulb and then gas will run
out of the carburetor drain valve?  I still don't think we are on the same
page about what surface we are talking about on the drum.  If I understand
you correctly the old brake linings wore into the drum (inside wall of the
barrel) and left a ridge is that correct?  Not seen that ridge as often as
the rivets wearing grooves into the drum when the brake lining gets too
thin. Too big of grooves and ridges are why drums are turned. If you want to
turn the drums you don't need to remove the shafts. The machinist will use
the shaft to turn the drum. The new linings will find a new home based on
the drum. If the new linings hit a ridge that is where the first lining wear
will be but that will happen very rapidly and then the lining will start
making full contact with the rest of the drum..  Even if the inside of the
drum, where the lining rubs, is a little rusty/rough it will smooth out
after  a while. The linings are pretty tough. When you do get the brakes on
and the tractor running be gently with the brakes for a while and let them
rub with a light pressure and you will feel the roughness and after a few
sessions like that you will notice the brakes smooth out.    Don't be too
generous with the grease. You don't want that to get on the brake linings.
Just a film.  The brakes will get hot if used heavily and you don't want
that grease running around inside there. 

Dean VP
Apache Junction, AZ

-----Original Message-----
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of STEVE ALLEN
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 5:09 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)

OK, guys.  I will try to answer all questions, and then I have another one
of my own.

'51 A:
Got the brake unit back together today but ran out of time to mount it.
Lots of anti-seize on the pins, cam, and spinny parts to keep it all free,
and grease in the shaft at the bearing surfaces so that it will not gall
before the rear-end oil gets to it.

To answer Dean:  the surface was the inside of the drum, where the shoes
ride.  Sorry, but the outside of the drum sometimes looks as raw as the
inside.  I didn't mean to imply you were somehow not getting it.  I misread
your question.

I started with an air gun to remove the scaly stuff.  Then, we used a rotary
tool with a stone wheel and also some crocus cloth to smooth the surface
somewhat and to lower the ridge where the shoes didn't ride.  The surface
was not perfect by any means, but an hour's worth of rotary and hand work
had it looking much better and the ridge much lower.  

I *think* it will be adequate; if anyone sees a fatal objection, don't
hesitate to sing out!

Gas.  1)  The drain cock is fine:  it will run gas out when the carb bowl
has gas in it.  2) The needle and seat aren't stuck; I know because, when I
do get gas to the carb, it will run out the drain cock.  The brass screen
inside the gas inlet is clear and clean.  the needle and seat are new, and
the float is mobile.  3)  The line is free and clear; in addition to being
brand new, I blew it out with my breath, and it was not obstructed.  4)  I
took the filter casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and
the screen.  I used air to verify that all passages were free.  Summary,
there *should* be an open passage all the way from the tank to the drain
cock, but gas only flows if I loosen the seal at the sediment bowl.  

I think I have answered all the questions, but I sure seem to be missing
something. . . .

'49 A:
Got both wheels off today and took a trip into town to the tire shop.  Bad
news.  They can save one but not the other, even with the donor wheel.
There's just not enough good bead left.

So I need a 11 x 38" pressed steel wheel for the '49 A.  Per the A Parts
manual:  JD # AA3861 (sub for JD1260R).

I would appreciate ANY leads, but, of course, the closer to MO the better.

Guys, I really appreciate all the help, all the suggestions, all the advice.
Every time you help me over a wall, another looms, but we've gotten past
several.  I look forward to the day when the last wall reveals a field on
the other side ;-)

One thing is sure:  my son is getting an education, too.

The "original" Steve Allen


_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com



------------------------------

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