[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)

deanvp at att.net deanvp at att.net
Tue Apr 21 23:34:54 PDT 2020


Steve;

I'm getting close to being stumped.  What does this mean: I took the filter
casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and the screen?
Are you referring to the sediment bulb assembly? Answer this question
relative to the gas sediment bulb.  If you leave the carburetor drain valve
open you still have to loosen the sediment bulb to get gas to flow and then
when the bulb fills up then you can tighten the bulb and then gas will run
out of the carburetor drain valve?  I still don't think we are on the same
page about what surface we are talking about on the drum.  If I understand
you correctly the old brake linings wore into the drum (inside wall of the
barrel) and left a ridge is that correct?  Not seen that ridge as often as
the rivets wearing grooves into the drum when the brake lining gets too
thin. Too big of grooves and ridges are why drums are turned. If you want to
turn the drums you don't need to remove the shafts. The machinist will use
the shaft to turn the drum. The new linings will find a new home based on
the drum. If the new linings hit a ridge that is where the first lining wear
will be but that will happen very rapidly and then the lining will start
making full contact with the rest of the drum..  Even if the inside of the
drum, where the lining rubs, is a little rusty/rough it will smooth out
after  a while. The linings are pretty tough. When you do get the brakes on
and the tractor running be gently with the brakes for a while and let them
rub with a light pressure and you will feel the roughness and after a few
sessions like that you will notice the brakes smooth out.    Don't be too
generous with the grease. You don't want that to get on the brake linings.
Just a film.  The brakes will get hot if used heavily and you don't want
that grease running around inside there. 

Dean VP
Apache Junction, AZ

-----Original Message-----
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of STEVE ALLEN
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 5:09 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
on the '49 A wheels! (deanvp at att.net)

OK, guys.  I will try to answer all questions, and then I have another one
of my own.

'51 A:
Got the brake unit back together today but ran out of time to mount it.
Lots of anti-seize on the pins, cam, and spinny parts to keep it all free,
and grease in the shaft at the bearing surfaces so that it will not gall
before the rear-end oil gets to it.

To answer Dean:  the surface was the inside of the drum, where the shoes
ride.  Sorry, but the outside of the drum sometimes looks as raw as the
inside.  I didn't mean to imply you were somehow not getting it.  I misread
your question.

I started with an air gun to remove the scaly stuff.  Then, we used a rotary
tool with a stone wheel and also some crocus cloth to smooth the surface
somewhat and to lower the ridge where the shoes didn't ride.  The surface
was not perfect by any means, but an hour's worth of rotary and hand work
had it looking much better and the ridge much lower.  

I *think* it will be adequate; if anyone sees a fatal objection, don't
hesitate to sing out!

Gas.  1)  The drain cock is fine:  it will run gas out when the carb bowl
has gas in it.  2) The needle and seat aren't stuck; I know because, when I
do get gas to the carb, it will run out the drain cock.  The brass screen
inside the gas inlet is clear and clean.  the needle and seat are new, and
the float is mobile.  3)  The line is free and clear; in addition to being
brand new, I blew it out with my breath, and it was not obstructed.  4)  I
took the filter casting off and disassembled it, removing the valve core and
the screen.  I used air to verify that all passages were free.  Summary,
there *should* be an open passage all the way from the tank to the drain
cock, but gas only flows if I loosen the seal at the sediment bowl.  

I think I have answered all the questions, but I sure seem to be missing
something. . . .

'49 A:
Got both wheels off today and took a trip into town to the tire shop.  Bad
news.  They can save one but not the other, even with the donor wheel.
There's just not enough good bead left.

So I need a 11 x 38" pressed steel wheel for the '49 A.  Per the A Parts
manual:  JD # AA3861 (sub for JD1260R).

I would appreciate ANY leads, but, of course, the closer to MO the better.

Guys, I really appreciate all the help, all the suggestions, all the advice.
Every time you help me over a wall, another looms, but we've gotten past
several.  I look forward to the day when the last wall reveals a field on
the other side ;-)

One thing is sure:  my son is getting an education, too.

The "original" Steve Allen


_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
AT at lists.antique-tractor.com
http://lists.antique-tractor.com/listinfo.cgi/at-antique-tractor.com




More information about the AT mailing list