[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!

deanvp at att.net deanvp at att.net
Mon Apr 20 18:56:20 PDT 2020


Brian,

I hope we don't confuse Steve.  All I remember is if I turn the lever
clockwise the  screw goes in and opens the valve.  If I turn it counter
clockwise the valve closes. Just the opposite of what you would think.
But, I don't have a carburetor available check that. I just packed up two
DLTX-10 carburetors and a Magneto to take with me back to WA.  A day ago I
had one in my hand.  It's possible I have it backwards. I know it confuses
me every time I need to open the carburetor drain valve. Even though I have
been through it many times. It's intuitively; backwards to me. Then I
remember how the valve works.  Steve will tell us which way it is.  Thanks
for trying to keep me on the straight and narrow. At my age that sometimes
is a full time job.

Dean VP
Apache Junction, AZ

-----Original Message-----
From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of Brian VanDragt
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 1:56 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + PROGRESS
on the '49 A wheels!

Dean,
The drain cock works as you described, but they have left hand threads so
you still turn them clockwise to close and counterclockwise to open (that is
looking up at it from the bottom of the carburetor).

Brian

> On April 20, 2020 at 4:24 PM deanvp at att.net wrote:
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention that the drain cock of the carburetor  could be
blocked
> if gas flows good to the carburetor but not out the drain cock.    The
drain
> cock is the reverse of normal. You screw it in (CW) to open the drain 
> and screw it out(CCW) to close it. Think of it having a bulb on the 
> end of the screw shaft and you need to move the bulb away and up for 
> the opening to drain or having to pull the bulb down to close it.  A 
> wire will not go directly up the hole  If you know you are getting gas 
> to the needle and seat and you know the seat is opening and still not 
> getting gas out the carburetor bowl drain plug then  just remove the 
> carburetor bowl and find out what is wrong with the drain plug.  When 
> you had the carburetor bowl off to change the needle and seat did you 
> happen to check the drain plug operation?
> 
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of 
> deanvp at att.net
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 1:09 PM
> To: 'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group' 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + 
> PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!
> 
> Steve,
> 
> I may be getting senile in my old age but yes I agree the picture 
> looks like the inside of the drum but which surface is it?  Is it a 
> surface perpendicular to the shaft or a surface that is parallel with 
> the shaft?  Or trying another way. Think of the drum as a barrel. Is 
> the surface shown the inside of the bottom of the barrel or the inside of
the side of the barrel?
> Unless I am seeing things the picture shows me a surface perpendicular 
> to the shaft and the inside of the bottom of a barrel. If so that 
> surface isn't critical.  It is the surface that is parallel to the 
> shaft or the inside of the barrel side that is important. The surface 
> the brake shoe linings rub against to provide friction for stopping 
> only when the brake pedal is depressed. .
> 
> Carburetor/sediment bulb issue.   What isn't clear to me is does the fuel
> run out of the carburetor fuel bowl drain when the sediment bowl is 
> fills up?  Does it flow freely?  If yes everything is copasetic. If it 
> doesn't then the needle and seat isn't opening up, or there is a plug 
> in the carburetor gas inlet or a plugged gas line or a plugged 
> sediment bulb fixture.
> 
> Let's start over. Let's work backwards to the sediment bulb.
> 
>  Does the sediment bulb fill up if the gas line is disconnected from 
> the carburetor and when the sediment bulb fills up does the gas run freely
our
> of the end of the gas line?   If so then you have a plugged carburetor or
a
> needle and seat that isn't opening! 
> 
> If the answer is No does the sediment bulb fill up if the gas line to 
> the carburetor is disconnected from the sediment bulb fixture?  If the 
> answer is yes you have a plugged gas line. If No you have a plugged 
> sediment bulb fixture.
> 
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of STEVE 
> ALLEN
> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 4:58 PM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (deanvp at att.net) + 
> PROGRESS on the '49 A wheels!
> 
> Dean and Cecil,
> 
> The pic shows the INSIDE of the drum, where the brake shoes run.  
> 
> As for the carb, I have the drain cock open on the carb bowl--that 
> makes no difference.  Also, I replaced the needle-and-seat, and I have 
> verified that they are not stuck closed.  The only way the sediment 
> bowl will fill is if it is loose enough for gas to run out the top of 
> it.  More will run out there than will drip out of the carb.  The fuel 
> line is clear, the screens and gaskets are all new, clean, and in the 
> right places.  That's why I am so confused.
> 
> While waiting on the new distributor cap and thinking about this fuel 
> headache, my boy and I cut grass today.  Then, we decided to work some 
> more on the '49 A wheels I wrote about last year (I labeled it a '48, 
> but the numbers apparently have been revised to say it is a '49).  
> Anyway, we took the new electric impact out to the shed to see if it 
> would have any effect on those remaining lug bolts on the wheel I 
> heated, pounded on, and otherwise cussed so long.  Hey, Presto! it spun
them all out in a trice.
> Literally three minutes, and all were out.  
> 
> Then, I figures, what the hey?  let's try the other wheel.  I had 
> heated it some but not nearly as much.  We got 2 out of the 7.  
> Tuesday, if my plans hold, we'll get the torch out there and apply more
heat and get the others.
> Since the tractor is so close to the shed wall, I had to drill a hole 
> in the cedar siding to get the impact on the left side.  Unorthodox, 
> but I was NOT going to try to move the tractor at that point.  I 
> didn't want to have to rebuild my cribbing.
> 
> Anyway, the weekend has had its challenges and rewards.  I hope the 
> info above helps folks understand the situation with the fuel and the 
> brakes for the '51.
> 
> Thanks for all the help so far!
> 
> The "original" Steve Allen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:26:11 -0700
> From: <deanvp at att.net>
> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
> 	<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
> Message-ID: <019901d61667$3f6aba50$be402ef0$@att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="utf-8"
> 
> Steve,
> 
> Having a little trouble figuring out if that is the back side of the 
> face of the drum or not but that particular surface just needs to 
> clean enough to remove  really major surface issues. The only side 
> that is somewhat sensitive is the inside surface of the drum that the 
> brake shoe lining rubs against when activated to stop. .
> 
> After cleaning all loose parts should rotate and slide in their 
> respective holes with very little finger pressure, No friction. These 
> are the parts I put anti-seize grease on to try oi keep them from rusting
again but not get
> grease on the brake shoe surface.   Be somewhat skimpy with the grease but
> make sure all surfaces of the moving parts have been covered. 
> 
> Does the fuel run out of the carburetor bowl when the sediment bowl 
> fills up? If not the carburetor float needle and seat is sticking 
> closed.  In a properly sealed system the sediment  bulb will not fill 
> up because the float probably is shutting off fuel flow to the 
> carburetor because that carburetor bowl is probably already full.  
> Therefore you have an airlock. I usually loosen the carburetor drain a 
> little and let some fuel run out to fill the bowl.  If no fuel comes 
> out of the carburetor fuel bowl then you have a carburetor float that 
> is sticking or a carburetor needle sticking in its seat.  Once some 
> fuel comes out of the carburetor bowl drain the sediment bulb should 
> fill up. Now having that in turn drip or leak when the bulb is full is 
> kind of incongruous since you had an air tight air lock before. Sure its
just not residue from when you were filling up the bulb?
> 
> But..... if none of that makes sense and you can get fuel into the 
> carburetor bowl and you can get the sediment bowl to fill by lessening 
> it and the tractor will run ignore the problem temporarily. And I will
think on
> it.   Its been awhile since I've had to deal with a bowl that won't fill.
> But I have been there done that. 
> 
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:38:39 -0500
> From: Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
> Message-ID: <2fd2cd68-7248-182d-4fa7-d3b230819109 at copper.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> I have had a rusty screen on top of the bowl, inside the housing that 
> would prevent gas from going through.?? I just pull the screen out and 
> cut the line and install an inline filter.? I don't run any gas engine 
> without inline filters.
> Cecil
> 
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