[AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Sun Apr 19 10:38:39 PDT 2020


I have had a rusty screen on top of the bowl, inside the housing that 
would prevent gas from going through.   I just pull the screen out and 
cut the line and install an inline filter.  I don't run any gas engine 
without inline filters.
Cecil

On 4/19/2020 11:26 AM, deanvp at att.net wrote:
> Steve,
>
> Having a little trouble figuring out if that is the back side of the face of the drum or not but that particular surface just needs to clean enough to remove  really major surface issues. The only side that is somewhat sensitive is the inside surface of the drum that the brake shoe lining rubs against when activated to stop. .
>
> After cleaning all loose parts should rotate and slide in their respective holes with very little finger pressure, No friction. These are the parts I put anti-seize grease on to try oi keep them from rusting again but not get grease on the brake shoe surface.   Be somewhat skimpy with the grease but make sure all surfaces of the moving parts have been covered.
>
> Does the fuel run out of the carburetor bowl when the sediment bowl fills up? If not the carburetor float needle and seat is sticking closed.  In a properly sealed system the sediment  bulb will not fill up because the float probably is shutting off fuel flow to the carburetor because that carburetor bowl is probably already full.  Therefore you have an airlock. I usually loosen the carburetor drain a little and let some fuel run out to fill the bowl.  If no fuel comes out of the carburetor fuel bowl then you have a carburetor float that is sticking or a carburetor needle sticking in its seat.  Once some fuel comes out of the carburetor bowl drain the sediment bulb should fill up. Now having that in turn drip or leak when the bulb is full is kind of incongruous since you had an air tight air lock before. Sure its just not residue from when you were filling up the bulb?
>
> But..... if none of that makes sense and you can get fuel into the carburetor bowl and you can get the sediment bowl to fill by lessening it and the tractor will run ignore the problem temporarily. And I will think on it.   Its been awhile since I've had to deal with a bowl that won't fill.  But I have been there done that.
>
> Dean VP
> Apache Junction, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AT <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> On Behalf Of STEVE ALLEN
> Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 4:00 PM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!!
>
> Dean,
>
> I have attached a pic, but it may be too big--I don't remember the limit.  It shows a patch of the worst surface.  I have used a rotary wire brush to clean the loose stuff off.
>
> I have no intention of trying for perfection.  I need the thing to run and work in the field.  I don't know if the kind of roughness you see here requires more attention or not.  I am spending a fair amount on this brake job, and I don't want to have to do it again any time soon ;-)
>
> Right now, I have also cleaned up the inside of the casting where the pedal shaft, the adjuster, the can, and the adjusting pins go.  Shotgun cleaning brushes proved to be pretty effective.
>
> Been fighting the fuel and ignition systems today.  I The ignitions switch makes contact only intermittently, and the distributor cap contacts are a mess, so new ones are on the way.  The tractor has good compression:  it's real tight to turn the pulley to get the points on the cam to set the gap.
>
> The fuel sediment bowl has me flummoxed.  When I open the valve, it will not fill the bowl unless the bowl is loosened.  Loosen the bowl so that gas runs out over the top, and it will fill the bowl and send gas to the carb.  but have the bowl tight against the gasket, and it will just drip a very small amount, even with the valve wide open.  It acts like the system is pressurized, even with the drain cock on the carb bowl open.  I took the thing off and verified that all the passages in the sediment filter casting are open and free.  Durned if I know why the gas won't run until I loosen the bowl.
>
> Thursday was a good day; today, not so much.
>
> Ain't Old Iron fun?
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2020 19:16:08 -0700
> From: <deanvp at att.net>
> To: "'Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group'"
> 	<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 2. Re: '51 JD A PROGRESS!!!! (Mark Johnson)
> Message-ID: <052401d61527$53aa5cf0$faff16d0$@att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
> Steve,
>
> Congratulations on getting it all apart. That feels good doesn't it. Yes, you can get the brake drum turned and yes there is enough meat left to do so unless..... it has been turned before or something very unusual has happened to gouge the drum surface deeper than anything I have ever seen.  Could you describe that drum surface in a little more detail and maybe even provide some pictures.
>
> PS:  I''ve taken apart probably 20  or more brake assemblies and some of the drum have looked really ugly but all I have ever done is use a right angle grinder with a wire brush wheel and cleaned them up to the point they are useable.  Sure they would be better if they were turned but..... we aren't dealing with a brake  that is going 80 miles an hour.  And sometimes it is noticeable when applying the brakes that the inside of the drum isn't perfect but... they do the job intended.  And.... if they are used enough
> they get better with every application.    Maybe I'm penny wise and pound
> foolish I've just never seen one so bad they need to be turned.  Yes, if I have the money and time to fix every thing perfectly ...do it ....but if you want a perfectly good working tractor brake clean the drum up to the best of
>
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