[AT] JD A Update; Quick Question

[Jim Becker]

It is the same thing except rather than 1-3-4-2 it is either 1-2-miss-miss 
or 1-miss-miss-2.  Bring it up on #1 TDC then look at the rotor.  It will 
either be pointing at or directly away from #1 on the cap.

Jim Becker

-----Original Message----- 
From: Doug Tallman
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 12:19 PM
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group
Subject: Re: [AT] JD A Update; Quick Question

Carl, Did you miss the fact that he is working on a JD-A and not an IH?
:-)  On the other hand, all he has to do is bring one cyl on compression
and see where the rotor points. The other wire will be easy!   Hope
everyone has the best Ester they can under the circumstances.  Doug T



On 4/12/2020 10:24 AM, szabelski at wildblue.net wrote:
> Steve,
>
> With respect to the ignition wires.  The firing order is cast on the 
> engine, should be 1,3,4,2 (based on my quick memory of my Cub). Remove the 
> distributor cap and note which way the rotor turns (should be counter 
> clockwise (again based on my quick recall of the Cub). Hand crank the 
> engine until the timing mark indicates TDC on #1 while checking for 
> pressure on #1cylinder, if no pressure you’re on TDC #4. Note position of 
> rotor that is #1 cylinder, if you are on #1, should be at the top, (again 
> based on my Cub). Then the wires should be clockwise #1, #3, #4, #2. The 
> rotor should turn 270 degrees  counter clockwise between each cylinder 
> firing:
>
>                             #1
>                               #2.                   #3
>
>                             #4
>
> Good luck.
>
> Carl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: STEVE ALLEN <steveallen855 at centurytel.net>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Sent: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 23:59:00 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: [AT] JD A Update; Quick Question
>
> Fellows, here's an update on the A and a question.
>
> My son and I spent much of the afternoon of Easter Vigil working on the A. 
> The battery is just about one step on a scale of 100 above dead, but I put 
> it in, and we made an attempt to start.
>
> I put some gas in and opened up the valve on the sediment bowl, hooked up 
> the jumper cables to my pickup, turned on the key, gave him a bit of 
> throttle and choke, and hit the starter.  He turns over, stiffly.  That's 
> the battery, I'm sure.  The starter sounds fine, just isn't getting good 
> oompf.
>
> No fire.  I decided to reduce to load on the starter and opened the 
> cylinder cocks.  The right side sprayed gas out in a stream.  Well. 
> obviously, the gas is running straight into the cylinder.  Two things: 
> the valve on the sediment bowl was leaking gas in even when it was closed, 
> and the needle-and-seat were not stopping the gas in the carb bowl.  I 
> know the float is OK because I checked it.  So I pulled the seat fitting 
> out, and, sure enough, the needle has a groove around it and no gasket 
> under it.  #1 Next item on the purchase list:  Needle and seat.  The "new" 
> shut-off valve needs to be replaced, too:  I can only get it to shut off 
> and not drip by really cranking down on it.  The ancient one on my other A 
> shuts off reliably with just a little pressure.  Of, course, the new one 
> is metric in its outer dimensions, so I can guess where it was made.  #2 
> Next item on the purchase list:  a higher quality shut-off valve for the 
> sediment bowl.
>
> Meanwhile, I had my son clean up the connections on the coil and the 
> ignition switch.  Pulled the coil wire off the coil, and the end was badly 
> corroded.  When we tested for spark by pulling the right plug and 
> grounding it against a cleaned spot on the frame, we got one spark but 
> only one.  This may be why.  and when he tried to clean it, the metal 
> contact broke.  #3 Next item on the purchase list:  new coil wire.  #4 
> next item, then I will probably get a new set of points while I am at it. 
> Oh, and a battery.  #5.
>
> Now, here's my question:  I told my son to pull the plug wires of the 
> distributor to see if their ends were OK.  They are, but he can't remember 
> which one was on top and which the bottom.  My other A has a mag, so I 
> know which ones go where on it, but I don't know about the distributor. 
> Right or left on top?  Good lesson for him--and a reminder to me not to 
> assume he knows more than he does.
>
> Anyway, we also spent a long time on the brake.  I got the pedal off, and 
> the pedal shaft seems to be free, but the adjuster is still stuck tight. 
> I got that iron nice and orange (got a rental bottle of acetylene) but no 
> dice yet.  I pulled the nut off the shaft and am working on the gear with 
> a puller.  Crank down, whack the puller with a hammer, crank a little 
> more.  I am leaving it under tension overnight.  I am not sure that it is 
> moving, but I keep at it.
>
> I was hoping not to have to do the electrolysis because I will have to 
> clean up the machined surfaces very good very quickly to prevent a worse 
> problem, and I want to get the gear off first, if possible, but I am 
> running out of options.
>
> I was told when I bought this tractor that it ran recently and was gone 
> through by a feller that does quality work and really takes care of his 
> equipment.  I begin to suspect that the story is embellished. . . .  I 
> absolutely prefer JDs, but I almost wish I'd spent the money on the 8N the 
> guy in town has for sale.  It runs.
>
> Well, it's good experience for my son even if it frustrates me not to be 
> working WITH it yet but still working ON it.
>
> The "original" Steve Allen
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