[AT] OT: Cast iron work on a replica cannon

Steve W. swilliams268 at frontier.com
Fri May 3 20:21:04 PDT 2019


STEVE ALLEN wrote:
> Gentlemen,
> 
> I am very grateful for the flow of ideas here!
> 
> I am especially grateful for the offers of help.
> 
> Let me clarify a couple of things.
> 
> First, the current (worn out) threads are 1/2" -20.  I had planned to
> go to 9/16" -12 if I have to drill out the hole and rethread; I have
> looked at a helicoil for 1/2" -13, both under the impression that, in
> cast iron, the coarse thread will wear better.  The bolt through
> which the vent is drilled would have to be replaced in any case
> unless I use and insert fro 1/2" - 20 again.  I should pint out that
> eh bolt is removed and re-installed before and after each time the
> gun is used (not each time fired but each event it goes to) in order
> to mount and de-mount the hammer for travel.  I don't know if regular
> removal and retightening influences the best repair plan or not.
> 
> Looking and the key-locking inserts, the literature says that the
> keys will lock the insert in place in soft materials, but it
> references aluminum.  Will the keys be useable in cast iron?
> 
> Thanks again for all the support!
> 
> The "original" Steve Allen (Just Steve, please:   my father was Mr.
> Allen)

I have used them in aluminum, cast iron, malleable iron and bronze with 
no issues. The keys simply shear off the area of the threads in front of 
them. If you are real worried you could coat it with red loctite and 
screw it in. Then sink the keys. It won't move after that.
The great thing about them is that they use standard tools unlike most 
other inserts.


-- 
Steve W.



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