[AT] Wheel Paint

[szabelski at wildblue.net]

I used the Rust-oleum Cold Zinc spray can and it has lasted for the last five or six years. It also looks close to an original rim. Don’t be skimpy with the paint. Put on a couple of good coats, even on the inside edge of the rim. Let the paint properly cure between coats.

I had to replace the original rims when the calcium chloride started to leak out and ate up the rims. The rust was so bad that the rust was embedded into the bead area and I had to pick it out, probably an 1/8 inch thick in some areas. Had to use a flat chisel and a sledge to break the bead because the rust just wouldn’t let go, like the tire and the rim were one piece. The bead area was pretty uneven, but it seated and it hasn’t gone flat all these years.

Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Moffat <rogerkiwi at gmail.com>
To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Mon, 02 Dec 2019 13:02:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [AT] Wheel Paint

Afternoon All - a tractor question if I may…

I have a Farmall Cub from around 1948/49 with 7.5-24 rear tyres on it. On of them kept going flat so I finally took it apart yesterday - the mid mounted blade on the Cub had just enough downwards pressure to help me break the beads on both sides with some hammering to assist. The tube had several small holes in it, so I have a new tube coming from Amazon.

The rim is also quite rusty, on the bead sealing areas as well as across most of the area where the tube sits, so I’m going to take it to get it sandblasted this afternoon.

What would/should it be painted with  - the part that contacts the tube and tyre bead areas? Just some Rustoleum paint, or something a bit more specialised like Rustoleum Cold Zinc, or ?? Something I can brush on would be best since it’s too cold here in Michigan for any spraying from a can at the moment, I’ll have to lug the rim down into my basement and let it warm up there before painting it I guess.

Thanks

Roger
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