[AT] Interior cavity oil was Big Truck Pickups

[Cecil Bearden]

As a kid I remember my Dad & Uncle drilling holes in the bottom of the 
doors of every Chevy pickup we had.  You could shake the door and hear 
the water in the bottom.  This was back in the day when pickups were 
used for working and carrying tools.  They were both carpenters.
Cecil



On 12/2/2019 8:37 AM, szabelski at wildblue.net wrote:
> I should have mentioned that Ziebart shops are not as common as they were in the 60’s and 70’s. They don’t advertise like they used to, and I only know one one shop that is still open. I think this might be due to the manufacturers improving their own rust proofing techniques and by voiding their warranties if you have your car undercoated by Ziebart, or any other undercoating company. There are a couple of other companies that provide undercoating service besides Ziebart.
>
> Carl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: szabelski at wildblue.net
> To: Antique Tractor Email Discussion Group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Mon, 02 Dec 2019 09:21:35 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: [AT] Interior cavity oil was Big Truck Pickups
>
> Ziebart has been around for a long time. Back in 1975 I had a full size Chevy Blazer that I had Ziebarted. I  did have rust develop over the rear wheel wells since they neglected to spray that area. They will only pay for cheap repair jobs if you try to use the warranty. The plugs you mentioned are from Ziebart drilling holes to apply their product.
>
> It’s also important to remember that all car/truck manufacturers apply their own coating/sealing/rustproofing, and that if you have an aftermarket product applied you will void your warranty as it applies to body rust. Read your owners manual.
>
> The main reason rust develops in certain area of you car/truck is because there are spots where water/moisture collects and sits. This is even worse if that area traps dirt/mud and the area stays damp all the time. Driving down dirt/gravel roads makes it even worse due the the road dust buildup and the chipping by the gravel kicked up.
>
> We live on a dirt road and I occasionally high pressure wash the underside of our vehicles to get rid of the mud buildup, usually during the hot summer days so that it dries well. You have to get behind the wheel wells, all along the frame, etc. Spring time is the worst, I’d say we pick up a hundred pounds of mud on the underside of our vehicles, with the inside of the rear tire rims getting a good solid layer of build up.
>
> Carl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Sent: Sun, 01 Dec 2019 23:09:37 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: [AT] Interior cavity oil was Big Truck Pickups
>
> I drove a fire truck from New Jersey to OKlahoma about 15 years ago.  It
> had plugs all over the door frames and cab and fender dead spots where
> they had pumped a product called Ziebart to prevent rust.  It seems to
> have worked.  The only rust spot is where my boot heel set on the bare
> floor board after I had been in and out of the truck and on the
> pavement.  We were in one of the worst snowstorms in PA in 20 years...
> Cecil
>
> On 12/1/2019 9:36 PM, James Peck wrote:
>> You want the oil inside the doors so the hem at the bottom that holds the outer and inner skins together on the doors doesn’t rust apart. Spraying the underside does not get the oil where it needs to go.
>>
>> I worked in door, hood, and deck lid assembly for a while, mostly on the minivan. Besides inner and outer skins, tapping plates for the hinges and latches got welded in. Chrysler actually had hemmer presses that bent the outer skins over the inner along with a bead of sealant. If you can keep oil in that lower hem joint your doors will hold together. They do not usually spot weld through an outer skin. Same thing at the bottom of the deck lid. You can oil the lower joint on doors by removing the inner trim panel. You can also brush the oil a few inches up each side of the door. You might have to drill small homes to squirt oil into the cavities on either side of the door and you probably can't get your hands  in there. The auto parts store has little plugs.
>>
>> Dripping oil onto the pavement is likely a ticketable offense. I might try a cheapy paint brush to brush oil on the bottom side, thin enough it does not drip. A little oil on the emergency brake cable where it goes into the conduit might keep that working.
>>
>> Francis Robinson aka "farmer" Central Indiana USA AT List Member (robinson46176 at gmail.com); Tom McCahill who wrote for Mechanix Illustrated more than once wrote of the common practice in Florida, where he was living, of spraying their cars all over underneath with used motor oil. I recall thinking at the time (early to mid-1950's) that I would think that mechanics would really hate working on those slimy under-pinnings. Normal leaking oil was bad enough.
>>
>> James AT List Member (jamesgpeck at hotmail.com);   Years ago I had a publication that advocated coating the interiors of the bottom of doors and any other lower water holding joint with used motor oil. I did try it on one car and it seemed to work.
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