[AT] 430V update

[Bo Hinch]

Glad to hear from you Charlie and stay safe and well .


On Thu, Jan 25, 2018 at 4:21 PM, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
wrote:

> I apologize for not keeping up with the list lately but I'm having eye
> problems.
>
> More about that in a second.  The BEST rust remover I have ever used is a
> laundry product
> called Wink.  It's made to take rust stains out of clothing but it works
> great removing rust from
> anything I've ever put it on.  It is an acid but it's mild enough that it
> does not burn your hands if
> you get it on them.  At least not mine anyway.  It does need to be well
> rinsed and if you ever
> use it on porcelain, etc.  rinse it just as soon as you see the rust go
> away
> because it will eat the base
> material.  That shouldn't be a problem with a carb.  It's relatively cheap.
> You'll find it in the
> laundry section of most grocery stores..... at least in the S/E.
>
> Back to my eyes.  Don't worry, I'm fine but the surgery on my right eye
> slightly reshaped my
> eyeball enough that both eyes don't exactly point in the same direction
> right now.  It only bothers me
> doing close work and reading.  Thus I won't be rebuilding any carbs or
> keeping up with my e-mail for
> a while and I have to have the same surgery on the other eye probably in
> March.  It's not bad surgery.
> Just implanting shunts to regulate the IOP in my eyes so I don't go blind
> from the Glaucoma I have developed.
>
> Hope the Wink suggestion helps someone.
>
> If someone replies and I don't respond you'll understand why.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Spencer Yost
> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2018 3:35 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] 430V update
>
> The old timers swear by boiling carbs, using something acidic instead of
> water if there is rust.   Lemon juice definitely works but requires a rinse
> boil to get the sugars off of it.  Preferably two rinse boils.   So it's
> time consuming.
>
> If rust isn't a problem I just dip them in my  NAPA carb dip.   If it is I
> will dip them per normal(430V carb is in the can now) and then do the boil
> after getting as much carb dip reside off as I can.
>
> One thing I have noticed by boiling. You know that thin, fine grained
> scale/sediment that is like concrete in the bottom of the bowl that the dip
> never really gets out? Boiling will get that.
>
> Spencer Yost
>
> > On Jan 23, 2018, at 10:02 AM, Gunnells, Brad R <brad-gunnells at uiowa.edu>
> > wrote:
> >
> > Yeah that's a nice feeling when everthing comes apart without stripping
> or
> > breaking something.
> >
> >
> > What is the lemon juice boil? I've never heard of that trick.
> >
> >
> > Brad
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > <at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com> on behalf of Spencer Yost
> > <yostsw at atis.net>
> > Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 8:34:29 PM
> > To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > Subject: [AT] 430V update
> >
> > The carb rebuild has started.   I was clearly right in that somebody has
> > been in the carburetor recently. There's a rebuild kit in it, but a
> couple
> > of important components were not replaced. The throttle bushing was old
> > and probably was a little looser than I had thought. One jet was not
> > seated all of the way, and the float clearly is not adjusted correctly.
> > Also the water leak that froze the cylinder also put some water in the
> > carburetor.  So there was some rust in two passages, partially clogging
> > them.
> >
> > I may have to do a lemon juice boil for the rust.   It was reasonably
> > localized and minor so we'll see after I soak it and hand twist a drill
> > bit in the passages.   I fortunately have drill bits the exact correct
> > size.
> >
> > PS. All the jets (and all the parts for that matter)came out easily.  A
> > first for me. (-;
> >
> > Spencer Yost
> >
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