[AT] 430V

[Rbrooks]

Spence

Try putting a piece of hardwood against the connecting rod to the stuck piston at the crank. Put a hydraulic jack under the other end of the hardwood. Put tension on it and let it soak. Then the next day or there about increase the tension. I usually take a 2nd pc of hardwood and a hammer and tap on the top of the piston. 

It might free up after a couple of increases in tension with the jack. I've used it on some auto engines and it seems to work

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 5, 2017, at 8:36 AM, Stephen Offiler <soffiler at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I stand corrected!  Dave is absolutely right.  The piston has max advantage
> on the crank at mid-stroke, and the opposite... the crank has max advantage
> on the piston at stroke ends.  Toggle press is a good analogy.  Sorry about
> that Spencer.
> 
> Continuing that idea.  A toggle press has, in effect, two con rods, with
> force applied at the center pin.  That implies that you can create some
> real force on the stuck piston if you can push at the crank-pin/con-rod
> perpendicular to the con rod.
> 
> SO
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 11:32 PM, Dave Merchant <kosh at ncweb.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Being near TDC gives maximum advantage to the crank.
>> 
>> Picture an old fashioned toggle press, or anything else that uses toggle
>> geometry, such as a Luger.
>> 
>> Dave Merchant
>> 
>> 
>>> On 9/4/2017 9:58 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>> Tried a few things tonight, and came up empty handed. Gave some good
>> raps on the piston of the stuck cylinder with a stick of wood and a rubber
>> mallet. Then tried the starter in neutral. Nada. Tried the starter with the
>> rear end  lifted and in 5th year. Again, no go. Keeping the rear end lifted
>> up overnight and charging the battery for another go tomorrow or Wednesday.
>>> 
>>> David gets extra points, because I rotated the valves and  they clearly
>> hold better. I pressurized the cylinders for a while.  The pressure was
>> enough to vaporize the penetrant through the intake and exhaust.  A nice
>> little fog so I didn't want  to leave it unattended. So I shut the pressure
>> off for now.  Looks like the valves are holding 20 PSI with a fairly rapid
>> leak down. I know that doesn't sound good but it's much better than
>> before.  My guess is if I keep working the valves  I will get better
>> results over time.
>>> 
>>> I looked for some room to use leverage on the crank with a piece of
>> wood, but the only thing I have purchased on is a rod cap - not about to
>> lean on that. If I could get some behind one of the counter weights of the
>> crankshaft I would not be bashful about putting some weight on that.  Just
>> isn't room.
>>> 
>>> I put penetrant in cylinder number two last night. It's all gone. It
>> looks clean as a whistle. I see no evidence of rust in the number two. I'm
>> certain that all my problem is number one.
>>> 
>>> Some further inspection revealed nothing new. I want to say I have as
>> much of a problem with galvanic corrosion as I have with rust. It's pretty
>> clear not a lot of water got in.  I was able to determine that most all the
>> water came in on the left  side of the cylinder judging by the rust trail
>> on the unfinished part of the crankshaft. I didn't have the right cabling
>> to get some video or  shots from the borescope.  I will continue to work
>> that angle.
>>> 
>>> Stay tuned
>>> 
>>> Spencer Yost
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 7:46 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Any way to gently spin the valve that is leaking?  Maybe that would
>>>> clean it enough to seal. I'm a fan of pressurized lubricant. With the
>>>> oil pan off you can see where the lube is going, and where it is not.
>>>> Best part is you can plug your air line in and let it "work" all week
>>>> while you are at work, sleeping, etc. Obviously leave the power to the
>>>> compressor cut off. Even if your valve leaks a little bit, so what. It
>>>> takes a long time to "leak" down a full tank of air. By the way, the
>>>> list help me devise a way to pressurize and push diesel fuel into the 10
>>>> ft long gear shift cables on my combine. It worked great, just took a
>>>> couple days--with that setup I could only use very little pressure
>> though.
>>>> 
>>>> How hot will one of those magnetic block heaters get the engine? I
>>>> assume you would have to have water in the coolant system.I'm not a fan
>>>> of leaving stuff like that unattended, maybe you could try it on the
>>>> weekend while you are around the house?
>>>> 
>>>> I understand bettter why you are reluctant to pull the engine down.
>>>> Hopefully you won't have to.
>>>> 
>>>> Hey, this is good stuff--first time in a long time anyone here has tried
>>>> resurrecting a tractor. Keep us updated frequently--you got members
>>>> coming out the woodwork!
>>>> 
>>>> John Hall
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