[AT] 430V

[Cecil Bearden]

Spencer:

Congratulations!  you have far more patience than I, but it looks like 
it paid off.
Cecil


On 9/17/2017 12:33 AM, Dean VP wrote:
> Way to go Spencer.  Is there a jacking point that you can push the crankshaft back the way it just moved from?  Every tractor that I have broken loose with a bar on the flywheel of a horizontal two cylinder required a back and forth motion where I would gain a little each time until it broke completely free. You will not like the sounds you hear as you move back and forth. The rings moving past the rusted spot on the cylinder wall will make the hair on your back stand up.  It makes you worry if and how much damage is being dome to the rings and/or the cylinder wall or even the piston.  But I've never busted a ring or ruined one to the point it needed to be replaced.  Will the cylinder walls need to be burnished as much as you can get too. You bet!  Hopefully you will be able to get to both sides, above and below, of the rust area on the cylinder wall.  If not then time will have to take care of it.  On the horizontal two cylinders I have broken loose I put diesel fuel in the crankcase, even over filled it a bit, removed the plugs and had my wife pull me around a long time, while in gear. This causes the oil pump to build up oil pressure to the  rod and main bearings and  the cylinder walls. This will help lubricate the cylinder side walls during the worst part of removing any rust residue from the cylinder walls. After a few 1000 feet of this you will be surprised how little you hear of the bad spot on the cylinder wall anymore. After this procedure I have had tractors start and run with just a short hit of the starter.  Most of the ones I broke loose, smoked and had some blow-by for a while until the cylinder wall and rings properly seated again. And the compression will not be up to par either until after some heavy work. The best way to get those rings to seat properly again is to get the engine up to 200 degrees plus and work the heck out of it for 20 to 30 minutes. John Deere Dubuque tractors tend to run hotter about 210 to 220 normally. May require a few sessions like this. That will also cause any stuck rings to come loose. Worst thing we do to our antique tractors is to constantly run them at too low a temperature.  It won't be long and you will not even remember it was stuck. Then your wife won't accuse you of thinking about your girlfriend any more. I don't know about you but one of the best parts of this hobby is getting them to run the first time, especially if it hasn't required a bunch of money. Time???? We don't count time in this hobby.
>
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Spencer Yost
> Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 6:38 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] 430V
>
> It free!!!!!!
>
> A solid 30° movement on my flywheel mark and a half an inch on my rod measurement. However I have run out of things to jack against. Now all the counter weights are all too close to the oil pump or the sides of blocks to safely use the jack. So I have the tractor suspended on the rear wheels again and I will leave it overnight.
>
> Steve Offiler probably gets the prize for this one for bring up the geometry idea. I got progress by abandoning jacking against the front counter weight; which was not a perfectly tangential force, and went to the second cylinder counter weight, which I could create a perfectly tangential force too. It acted like it was never stuck and simply gave up the ghost with no problem.  Clearly, geometry is everything.
>
> Unfortunately the second counter weight required very careful positioning, as there is about three different things I could damage if anything slipped or moved too quickly. And now it's too far up in the block to jack against.
>
> 99% of the work is done. I am quite relieved!
>
> Spencer Yost
>
>
>
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