[AT] Flat belt vs. pulley width?

[John Hall]

Tyler sounds like you just had mechanical failure from a lot of use 
concerning the wobble. Now excessive slop in a shaft fit can also cause 
premature wear on the seals. Assuming the  mechanical slop has been 
taken care of and new seals have been installed, you should be trouble 
free until the seal deteriorates with age--and that could be 30 plus 
years. I have seen shafts that were really worn down where the seal rubs 
resulting in the seal leaking/sweating sooner than is normally expected. 
In your case if everything is nice and tight regarding the shaft and 
bearings, I'd just run the belt pulley a couple times a year for just a 
couple minutes, keeps oil splashed around and will help prevent anything 
from rusting.

For what its worth, I think every tractor here with a belt pulley 
leaks--some need new seals.

John Hall



On 9/14/2017 1:40 PM, Tyler Juranek wrote:
> Hi Mike and all,
>   Since we are on the topic of belt work, I wanted to know the best way
> to maintain the tractor's belt pulley.
>   A few years ago at the local show, my oliver 88 ran the sawmill for a
> short time. The guys who were helping line the belt up said the pulley
> was a bit wobley but we could still use it.
>   Well, I got the tractor home, and , what we thought was a rear main
> seal leaking turned out to be a leak at the pulley. So when I redid
> the rearend, I had all new bearings put into the mechanism that drives
> the pulley.
>   It's been done for about a year or so now. It hasn't done any belt
> work, but is there a good way to maintain it so the bearings and
> things don't fail again?
>   I do engage the pulley every now and then.
>   Thanks much.
>   Take Care,
>   Tyler Juranek
>   IA
>
> On 9/13/17, Mike M <meulenms at gmx.com> wrote:
>> Al, be sure to notch the corners between the lacing and the belt edge.
>> In other words, you should cut a piece out of the belt at the lace joint
>> extending from the last lacing hook to the edge of the belt, at
>> approximately a 45 degree angle, or steeper. Helps the belt glance off
>> the obstruction vs tearing up the lace joint.
>>
>> Mike M
>>
>> On 9/13/2017 8:50 PM, Al Jones wrote:
>>> Thanks guys!  If I try it, I don't think I can center the belt on the
>>> pulley.  There are bolts that hold the bearings in place on it and
>>> unless I'm REAL careful, they'll rub the belt.
>>>
>>> Al
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 3:27 PM, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>>>> Al,
>>>>
>>>>     It should work ok, except you will have the equivalent of a 5" belt as
>>>> far
>>>> as drive strength goes. In my limited experience a longer belt is easier
>>>> to
>>>> keep aligned on the pulley.
>>>>
>>>> Dean VP
>>>> Snohomish, WA 98290
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Al Jones
>>>> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 7:14 PM
>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>> Subject: [AT] Flat belt vs. pulley width?
>>>>
>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>
>>>>    Say you have a pulley that's 5" wide.  Can you run a 6" wide belt on
>>>> it, or
>>>> do you have to stick with a belt the same width or narrower than the
>>>> pulley?
>>>>
>>>> I want a longer belt for my IH 4E hammer mill before I go to a show
>>>> again.
>>>> I have a 4" belt for it but it's only 8' long (when laced
>>>> together) and you have to keep it fiddle string-tight.
>>>>
>>>> Al
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>>>>
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