[AT] 430V

[Dean VP]

Dave, 

Alternatively and Unfortunately, due to this, putting pressure on the top of
the piston gives minimum advantage

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Dave Merchant
Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 8:33 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] 430V

Being near TDC gives maximum advantage to the crank.

Picture an old fashioned toggle press, or anything else that uses toggle
geometry, such as a Luger.

Dave Merchant


On 9/4/2017 9:58 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> Tried a few things tonight, and came up empty handed. Gave some good raps
on the piston of the stuck cylinder with a stick of wood and a rubber
mallet. Then tried the starter in neutral. Nada. Tried the starter with the
rear end  lifted and in 5th year. Again, no go. Keeping the rear end lifted
up overnight and charging the battery for another go tomorrow or Wednesday.
>
> David gets extra points, because I rotated the valves and  they clearly
hold better. I pressurized the cylinders for a while.  The pressure was
enough to vaporize the penetrant through the intake and exhaust.  A nice
little fog so I didn't want  to leave it unattended. So I shut the pressure
off for now.  Looks like the valves are holding 20 PSI with a fairly rapid
leak down. I know that doesn't sound good but it's much better than before.
My guess is if I keep working the valves  I will get better results over
time.
>
> I looked for some room to use leverage on the crank with a piece of wood,
but the only thing I have purchased on is a rod cap - not about to lean on
that. If I could get some behind one of the counter weights of the
crankshaft I would not be bashful about putting some weight on that.  Just
isn't room.
>
> I put penetrant in cylinder number two last night. It's all gone. It looks
clean as a whistle. I see no evidence of rust in the number two. I'm certain
that all my problem is number one.
>
> Some further inspection revealed nothing new. I want to say I have as much
of a problem with galvanic corrosion as I have with rust. It's pretty clear
not a lot of water got in.  I was able to determine that most all the water
came in on the left  side of the cylinder judging by the rust trail on the
unfinished part of the crankshaft. I didn't have the right cabling to get
some video or  shots from the borescope.  I will continue to work that
angle.
>
> Stay tuned
>
> Spencer Yost
>
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 7:46 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> Any way to gently spin the valve that is leaking?  Maybe that would 
>> clean it enough to seal. I'm a fan of pressurized lubricant. With the 
>> oil pan off you can see where the lube is going, and where it is not.
>> Best part is you can plug your air line in and let it "work" all week 
>> while you are at work, sleeping, etc. Obviously leave the power to 
>> the compressor cut off. Even if your valve leaks a little bit, so 
>> what. It takes a long time to "leak" down a full tank of air. By the 
>> way, the list help me devise a way to pressurize and push diesel fuel 
>> into the 10 ft long gear shift cables on my combine. It worked great, 
>> just took a couple days--with that setup I could only use very little
pressure though.
>>
>> How hot will one of those magnetic block heaters get the engine? I 
>> assume you would have to have water in the coolant system.I'm not a 
>> fan of leaving stuff like that unattended, maybe you could try it on 
>> the weekend while you are around the house?
>>
>> I understand bettter why you are reluctant to pull the engine down.
>> Hopefully you won't have to.
>>
>> Hey, this is good stuff--first time in a long time anyone here has 
>> tried resurrecting a tractor. Keep us updated frequently--you got 
>> members coming out the woodwork!
>>
>> John Hall
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