[AT] 430V

[Stephen Offiler]

I stand corrected!  Dave is absolutely right.  The piston has max advantage
on the crank at mid-stroke, and the opposite... the crank has max advantage
on the piston at stroke ends.  Toggle press is a good analogy.  Sorry about
that Spencer.

Continuing that idea.  A toggle press has, in effect, two con rods, with
force applied at the center pin.  That implies that you can create some
real force on the stuck piston if you can push at the crank-pin/con-rod
perpendicular to the con rod.

SO

On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 11:32 PM, Dave Merchant <kosh at ncweb.com> wrote:

> Being near TDC gives maximum advantage to the crank.
>
> Picture an old fashioned toggle press, or anything else that uses toggle
> geometry, such as a Luger.
>
> Dave Merchant
>
>
> On 9/4/2017 9:58 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> > Tried a few things tonight, and came up empty handed. Gave some good
> raps on the piston of the stuck cylinder with a stick of wood and a rubber
> mallet. Then tried the starter in neutral. Nada. Tried the starter with the
> rear end  lifted and in 5th year. Again, no go. Keeping the rear end lifted
> up overnight and charging the battery for another go tomorrow or Wednesday.
> >
> > David gets extra points, because I rotated the valves and  they clearly
> hold better. I pressurized the cylinders for a while.  The pressure was
> enough to vaporize the penetrant through the intake and exhaust.  A nice
> little fog so I didn't want  to leave it unattended. So I shut the pressure
> off for now.  Looks like the valves are holding 20 PSI with a fairly rapid
> leak down. I know that doesn't sound good but it's much better than
> before.  My guess is if I keep working the valves  I will get better
> results over time.
> >
> > I looked for some room to use leverage on the crank with a piece of
> wood, but the only thing I have purchased on is a rod cap - not about to
> lean on that. If I could get some behind one of the counter weights of the
> crankshaft I would not be bashful about putting some weight on that.  Just
> isn't room.
> >
> > I put penetrant in cylinder number two last night. It's all gone. It
> looks clean as a whistle. I see no evidence of rust in the number two. I'm
> certain that all my problem is number one.
> >
> > Some further inspection revealed nothing new. I want to say I have as
> much of a problem with galvanic corrosion as I have with rust. It's pretty
> clear not a lot of water got in.  I was able to determine that most all the
> water came in on the left  side of the cylinder judging by the rust trail
> on the unfinished part of the crankshaft. I didn't have the right cabling
> to get some video or  shots from the borescope.  I will continue to work
> that angle.
> >
> > Stay tuned
> >
> > Spencer Yost
> >
> >> On Sep 4, 2017, at 7:46 PM, John Hall <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Any way to gently spin the valve that is leaking?  Maybe that would
> >> clean it enough to seal. I'm a fan of pressurized lubricant. With the
> >> oil pan off you can see where the lube is going, and where it is not.
> >> Best part is you can plug your air line in and let it "work" all week
> >> while you are at work, sleeping, etc. Obviously leave the power to the
> >> compressor cut off. Even if your valve leaks a little bit, so what. It
> >> takes a long time to "leak" down a full tank of air. By the way, the
> >> list help me devise a way to pressurize and push diesel fuel into the 10
> >> ft long gear shift cables on my combine. It worked great, just took a
> >> couple days--with that setup I could only use very little pressure
> though.
> >>
> >> How hot will one of those magnetic block heaters get the engine? I
> >> assume you would have to have water in the coolant system.I'm not a fan
> >> of leaving stuff like that unattended, maybe you could try it on the
> >> weekend while you are around the house?
> >>
> >> I understand bettter why you are reluctant to pull the engine down.
> >> Hopefully you won't have to.
> >>
> >> Hey, this is good stuff--first time in a long time anyone here has tried
> >> resurrecting a tractor. Keep us updated frequently--you got members
> >> coming out the woodwork!
> >>
> >> John Hall
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