[AT] 430V

Dean VP deanvp at att.net
Sun Sep 3 23:25:45 PDT 2017


Greg,

I understand where you are coming from and it has merit but let me offer my
experience on my second JD 60 that was stuck.  I had valves that were
sticking, pistons were stuck but when it broke loose I had my wife pull me
around with only diesel fuel in the crankcase. Once there seemed to be
reasonable compression, I added spark plugs and had my wife pull me again.
We didn't move more than 10 feet before it fired up. All kinds of crap came
out of the muffler including blue smoke.  Threw a cover over the grill and
got the temperature up to 200 degrees plus and worked the heck out of it for
an hour or so.  Everything cleaned up and the compression is within specs
and very close to equal  on the cylinders. I haven't put it on a dyno but I
would suspect it would put out rated HP and now without blue smoke.,   So
without taking the engine apart I went from a stuck engine with stuck valves
to a completely functional and running tractor without taking the engine
apart.  I accept  this is a sample of one but it can be done.


-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Greg Hass
Sent: Sunday, September 3, 2017 10:58 PM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] 430V

My vote is to remove the head for several reasons: 1) I'm not the one doing
the work; 2) I'm not paying the bill, although I don't think the cost would
be very high; 3) it would make it a lot easier to find out whats going on;
4) and the most important on my list, if I remember correctly ( my CRS has
been getting worse as time goes on) it was mentioned that one valve would
not hold pressure. If this is the case, it would appear to me the head would
have to be pulled at some point to fix the leaking valve. If I am wrong,
everything I have said goes out the window. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but
trying to help fix the problem from afar.
            Greg Hass
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