[AT] 430V

Ken Knierim ken.knierim at gmail.com
Sun Sep 3 15:31:31 PDT 2017


At or near TDC/BDC would move the piston less for the same amount of crank
rotation giving more mechanical advantage, wouldn't it? Seems like it take
more torque if it was halfway through the piston stroke (when piston speed
is usually highest for the same rotation speed). Maybe I shoulda taken that
physics class...

Ken in AZ


On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 2:35 PM, Herb Metz <metz-h.b at comcast.net> wrote:

> Dean, have not heard that term in a long time.  Herb(GA)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: deanvp
> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 4:46 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] 430V
>
> Yep, if the piston is at the top or bottom of the stroke, not much torque
> is
> being applied to move the piston.  If so you may be sol.
> -------- Original message --------From: Stephen Offiler <
> soffiler at gmail.com>
> Date: 9/3/17  1:08 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Antique tractor email discussion
> group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] 430V
> I'll second what Charlie said, and add another factor:
>
> You've been in there with a bore scope, right?  Is the stuck piston near
> TDC or BDC?  If so, the geometry isn't giving you much mechanical advantage
> against the piston.
>
> SO
>
> On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 12:26 PM, charlie hill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Spencer, have you tried loading pressure against it in the other
> > (opposite) rotation?
> >
> > I am still of the personal opinion, if it was mine and stuck that tight,
> > I'd want to see what's going on inside it.  Even if you get it to break
> > loose aren't you going to be worried about the damage that might
> > be done if you start and run it without knowing exactly where and why
> > it is stuck?
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Spencer Yost
> > Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 9:37 AM
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> > Subject: Re: [AT] 430V
> >
> > Thanks Tom. The tractor is a very low hour tractor, and I am very amazed
> > at
> > how little play there is to develop any real acceleration with the roll
> > back-and-forth method. I have tried chocking one wheel, raising the other
> > and shock loading that way. With the set up I just put together yesterday
> > I
> > can  vertically rock , from the operator's platform, the tractor  and get
> > some real good up and down shock loading(engine hoist arm flexes a bit).
> >
> > PS.  The hoist did not leak down over night.
> >
> > Spencer Yost
> >
> > > On Sep 3, 2017, at 12:35 AM, toma at risingnet.net wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I think a little shock action (clunk clunk back and forth)  in 5th gear
> > > may produce better results than constant weight.
> > > Tom
> > > --
> > > Sent from myMail app for Android Saturday, 02 September 2017,
> > > 08:58PM -0700 from Spencer Yost < yostsw at atis.net> :
> > >
> > >> I just checked on the tractor and Nada.  The hoist cylinder is
> holding,
> > >> and now that I think about it, I think I did replace the cylinder
> about
> > >> eight or 10 years ago. I think the fear I have about the cylinder not
> > >> holding relates to the old one that I used to have that I have since
> > >> replaced.
> > >>
> > >> I had not thought about the 4x4 straps, but I had thought about moving
> > >> the hoist back some. I have limited space to work with, so I ruled
> that
> > >> out.  As for weights I may add some tomorrow. I have some weights from
> > >> the  John Deere B I used to own, and some weights  for my Pacer that
> > >> are
> > >> not installed currently.   As for gearing I am using fifth gear. I did
> > >> only earn a B in or physics so I may be wrong about this; but I
> believe
> > >> 5th gear(this tractor does have the 5 speed option) on the wheel is
> the
> > >> same thing as first gear in normal engine powered circumstances and
> > would
> > >> generate the most torque.  I would love some discussion on this. I
> > >> don't
> > >> have a lot of confidence in my understanding.
> > >>
> > >> Spencer Yost
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Spencer Yost
> > >>> On Sep 2, 2017, at 9:38 PM, Dean VP < deanvp at att.net > wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> What would increase the torque would be strapping a 4x4 to each wheel
> > >>> and
> > >>> then using the hoist 6 feet or so feet back away from the wheels.
> > >>> Adding
> > >>> weight to the tractor over the axle will also help.  I'd have to
> think
> > >>> about
> > >>> it  a bit which gear would transmit the most torque to the engine.
> > >>> Inserting the right length board under the hoist would eliminate any
> > >>> leak
> > >>> down.
> > >>>
> > >>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>> From:  at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > >>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Spencer
> > Yost
> > >>> Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 6:02 PM
> > >>> To:  at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > >>> Subject: [AT] 430V
> > >>>
> > >>> The shop reorganization happened today, so I had the opportunity to
> > >>> try
> > >>> to
> > >>> apply constant pressure to the engine by raising the rear wheels. An
> > >>> engine
> > >>> hoist and a fence stretcher used as a spreader bar seems to fit the
> > >>> bill.
> > >>> The cut-outs in the wheels that the chain loop through are at 90
> > degrees
> > >>> to
> > >>> vertical so I should be generating as much force as possible.  Engine
> > >>> still
> > >>> has not moved but I just started.  The engine hoist cylinder is not
> > >>> leaking
> > >>> down like I seem to remember it would, so I will leave it overnight.
> > >>>
> > >>> PS: To show you were an optimist I am, I drained the penetrating
> fluid
> > >>> from
> > >>> the cylinder so it wouldn't spray all over the shop when the engine
> > >>> let's
> > >>> go. :-)
> > >>>
> > >>> PSS.  I remember enough of college physics to know that lifting it
> > more
> > >>> than just barely off the ground actually decreases force So I'll keep
> > >>> a
> > >>> close eye on the engine hoist to make sure it's not leaking down.
> > >>>
> > >>> Stayed tuned.
> > >>>
> > >>>
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