[AT] HayWagon build up.

[Mogrits]

Spencer,

What mill do you have? I have been thinking about getting one but there are
so few around me I am not that familiar with them.

Warren

On Sun, Oct 29, 2017 at 10:50 PM, Spencer Yost <yostsw at atis.net> wrote:

> Thanks - I feel the same about pressure treated.
>
> I say I got the wagon for free but actually I bartered some labor for it.
> The guy I got the hay wagon from delivered it with three white oak logs on
> it.   He has an equipment trailer he needed a new deck for.   Since I have
> a small saw mill I cut his lumber in exchange for the running gear.   The
> logs were 16 feet so I just cut a bunch of 1-5/8 thick for him, then for me
> 5/4 boards for the deck, 10/4  boards for the runners,  and 8/4 boards for
> the crosspieces and rear trim that the rack attaches to.  I'll use 5/4 for
> the rest of the trim.   The logs were of such a diameter that cutting
> everything 8" wide worked perfect(16 and 24" bolts after slabbing) so
> that's what I did.  Don't think I will have enough for the rear rack.  I
> have one smallish 8' white oak log of my own that I think I can saw a rack
> out of.  I will definitely have to cross my fingers sawing that one.
>
> Spencer Yost
>
> > On Oct 29, 2017, at 10:07 PM, Henry Miller <hank at millerfarm.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Length is about how sharp you turn relative to the tongue length. You
> > don't want the wagon to hit the tires. (I've never seen this, but a few
> > times the tires were too close for my comfort when I was riding on the
> > wagon back to the barn). I'd measure everything and check that it fits
> > before I started cutting anything.
> >
> > Be careful about what wood you use. Treated seems like a good idea, but
> > modern treated wood will rot the iron out in a few months. I don't have
> > a great answer, either spend the money for white oak (or other wood that
> > won't rot),  use dry pine and paint it (several coats) first; or treated
> > but paint the wagon good, then paint the dry wood (lumber yard treated
> > lumber is often wetter than code allows), and put zinc (anti sieze) on
> > anywhere metal contacts wood.
> >
> >  I've never done any of the above, but I've seen enough rotted wood in
> >  hay racks to figure it is worth more effort than the last guy did.
> >
> > --
> >  Henry Miller
> >  hank at millerfarm.com
> >
> >> On Sun, Oct 29, 2017, at 03:51 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> >> I scored a free John Deere Haywagon. Not sure of the year but it looks
> >> old enough to put on my 430 V :-)
> >>
> >> Two questions:
> >>
> >> Does anyone know a way to ID these things? Other than a ghost of a John
> >> Deere decal and green paint  have no idea as to year or model.
> >>
> >> Is there a certain convention to how far the the bed extends past the
> >> front and rear wheels ?  No one I know around here has wagons anymore or
> >> I would just go measure one.  Obviously it can't extend too far in front
> >> of the front wheels or it will interfere with steering, but it must
> >> extend some.   Most wagons I have worked on the wheels are symmetrical
> >> under the bed so once I get a good dimension for the front 'll just use
> >> that for the rear.
> >>
> >> The running gear is actually in good shape, but it has no bed. The
> >> running gear was adjusted as close together as possible for storage, so
> I
> >> have to pull it apart for a 16' bed I've sWn wood for and need to know
> >> how far to pull it apart.
> >>
> >> Thanks!!!!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Spencer Yost
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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