[AT] HayWagon build up.

[Mike M]

Spencer, Oak weathers really well, and if you can find  a local sawmill, 
it's cheaper than anything you'll find at the lumber yard, and twice as 
strong. If you have a place to store it undercover, it will last 
forever. If not, oil it once a year and you'll be fine.

Mike M


On 10/29/2017 10:50 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> Thanks - I feel the same about pressure treated.
>
> I say I got the wagon for free but actually I bartered some labor for it. The guy I got the hay wagon from delivered it with three white oak logs on it.   He has an equipment trailer he needed a new deck for.   Since I have a small saw mill I cut his lumber in exchange for the running gear.   The logs were 16 feet so I just cut a bunch of 1-5/8 thick for him, then for me 5/4 boards for the deck, 10/4  boards for the runners,  and 8/4 boards for the crosspieces and rear trim that the rack attaches to.  I'll use 5/4 for the rest of the trim.   The logs were of such a diameter that cutting everything 8" wide worked perfect(16 and 24" bolts after slabbing) so that's what I did.  Don't think I will have enough for the rear rack.  I have one smallish 8' white oak log of my own that I think I can saw a rack out of.  I will definitely have to cross my fingers sawing that one.
>
> Spencer Yost
>
>> On Oct 29, 2017, at 10:07 PM, Henry Miller <hank at millerfarm.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Length is about how sharp you turn relative to the tongue length. You
>> don't want the wagon to hit the tires. (I've never seen this, but a few
>> times the tires were too close for my comfort when I was riding on the
>> wagon back to the barn). I'd measure everything and check that it fits
>> before I started cutting anything.
>>
>> Be careful about what wood you use. Treated seems like a good idea, but
>> modern treated wood will rot the iron out in a few months. I don't have
>> a great answer, either spend the money for white oak (or other wood that
>> won't rot),  use dry pine and paint it (several coats) first; or treated
>> but paint the wagon good, then paint the dry wood (lumber yard treated
>> lumber is often wetter than code allows), and put zinc (anti sieze) on
>> anywhere metal contacts wood.
>>
>>   I've never done any of the above, but I've seen enough rotted wood in
>>   hay racks to figure it is worth more effort than the last guy did.
>>
>> -- 
>>   Henry Miller
>>   hank at millerfarm.com
>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 29, 2017, at 03:51 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
>>> I scored a free John Deere Haywagon. Not sure of the year but it looks
>>> old enough to put on my 430 V :-)
>>>
>>> Two questions:
>>>
>>> Does anyone know a way to ID these things? Other than a ghost of a John
>>> Deere decal and green paint  have no idea as to year or model.
>>>
>>> Is there a certain convention to how far the the bed extends past the
>>> front and rear wheels ?  No one I know around here has wagons anymore or
>>> I would just go measure one.  Obviously it can't extend too far in front
>>> of the front wheels or it will interfere with steering, but it must
>>> extend some.   Most wagons I have worked on the wheels are symmetrical
>>> under the bed so once I get a good dimension for the front 'll just use
>>> that for the rear.
>>>
>>> The running gear is actually in good shape, but it has no bed. The
>>> running gear was adjusted as close together as possible for storage, so I
>>> have to pull it apart for a 16' bed I've sWn wood for and need to know
>>> how far to pull it apart.
>>>
>>> Thanks!!!!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Spencer Yost
>>>
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