[AT] Hay wagon update

[Cecil Bearden]

Sportsman's Guide had a sale on those .045 thickness blades made for 
Stainless Steel.  They came in a metal can and were less than $0.40 ea.  
I bought 100 and later bought another 100.  I have a Dewalt cordless 18V 
grinder that never seemed to have enough power or last long enough to 
really cut or grind.   Dewalt now makes a 20V adapter for the 18V tools, 
and that solved the problem.  I use that  cordless grinder at least 4 
times a week.  With the thin blades, I just cut bolts or nuts instead of 
worrying with the rust etc.  Unless of course it is a special place or 
bolt..    When welding, if I need to make a small cut, I use the grinder 
where I used the plasma cutter or torch earlier.  It makes for a much 
better weld and a more professional look.  I also have one of those 8in 
diameter circular saws that use the carbide tipped blade for cutting 
steel.  That blade is expensive, and I only use it when the plasma 
cutter is too rough.   The plasma with a guide is about as good as using 
a metal shear when piecing together large sheets.

Cecil in Okla


On 11/21/2017 6:15 AM, Stephen Offiler wrote:
> Speaking as a big fan of the 4-1/2" angle grinder and the .045" cutoff
> wheels myself... Cecil's idea sounds pretty interesting to me!  I'm going
> to file that one away for future reference.  "If it's stuck, cut it apart
> and weld it back together later"
>
> SO
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 8:39 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
>
>> Vibration seems to always work.   If you have a jackhammer, you might
>> try it on the sides and also on the end of the pipes.  I use a lot of 4
>> 1/2"cutoff blades in a small grinder.   The blades are only 0.045
>> thick.   In a good small grinder they are lethal to steel.   You could
>> try to just slit the outside pipe and once it is apart, weld the pipe
>> back together.  I would only weld a short spot and then go back to
>> another spot.  I have done this in the past, it is a lot of welding, but
>> it goes fast.
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
>>
>>
>> On 11/20/2017 4:41 PM, Ken Knierim wrote:
>>> Too bad you don't have a gravel road with chatter bumps... seems like
>>> everything on a trailer comes loose when you rattle it across something
>>> like that. Of course, this assumes a little higher road speed. :)
>>>
>>> Ken in AZ
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 20, 2017 at 2:10 PM, Spencer Yost <yostsw at atis.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have thought about this also, but to make this work you need to push
>>>> down on two wheels and block/lift on one.   I have been trying to decide
>>>> how to do this, and think I have arrived at putting the frame of a
>> tractor
>>>> over one wheel/beam,  block one wheel and then  push down with the
>> bobcat
>>>> on the third.
>>>>
>>>> Lifting it up on its side and placing the rear axle between two stout
>>>> trees  growing close to each other was suggested by one person a while
>> back
>>>> ago. I have been looking for those two trees all over my property but I
>>>> have not found them yet  :-)
>>>>
>>>>    If I do that would be an interesting experiment.
>>>>
>>>> Spencer Yost
>>>>
>>>>> On Nov 20, 2017, at 12:36 PM, John Slavin <chaunceyjb at sbcglobal.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Spencer:
>>>>>
>>>>> Could you maybe jack up and put some blocks under one wheel or corner
>> of
>>>> the running gear and hang a weight on the other corner of the running
>> gear
>>>> on the same side?  I thought first about putting a big bale or
>> something on
>>>> the wagon, but you’d want to be careful about springing the frame of the
>>>> wagon.  You only want to move the running gear.  If the box is still on
>> the
>>>> frame, you might even want to jack the box up so the twist would only
>> be to
>>>> the running gear.  That way you could come back every day or so and
>> resoak
>>>> the running gear.
>>>>> John S.
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