[AT] Off Topic. Need help with Dodge caravan computer maybe?

[Cecil Bearden]

I swapped the relays with the ASD relay yesterday.   Since the plugs are 
dry, I think both fuel and spark are shut down.

Cecil


On 5/19/2017 7:16 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
> Cecil, There is a relay in the underhood box called an auto shutdown
> relay. It controls voltage to the ignition coil among a bunch of other
> circuits. you could check for voltage at the coil or just swap the relay
> with another similar one from the box and try it first. Doug T
>
> On 5/19/2017 8:03 AM, Cecil Bearden wrote:
>> St eve:
>> Thanks I will try it.  My thoughts are that the charging syst em
>> grounded through a sensor.
>>
>> Cecil
>>
>>
>> On 5/18/2017 10:56 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>>> Cecil Bearden wrote:
>>>> I know a lot of you guys have more experience with the computer systems
>>>> than I have.  I have suffered through Youtube videos of nearly every
>>>> self described ëxpert"in diagnosing a no start condition.  Here's the
>>>> timeline of what has been replaced and what happened.  Wife's 2003 Grand
>>>> Caravan w/ 3.8L V6 130000 miles.  Sat Morning, alternator making loud
>>>> whine heard 40 yds away.  Alternator would burn your fingers after
>>>> running only 4 minutes.  Dropped Alternator and found noisy water pump
>>>> also leaking when inspecting other pulleys.  Replaced alternator and
>>>> water pump after bolt broke off on water pump.  Drilled it out Sat night
>>>> with cordless screwdriver and hex chuck style bits.  Had partial threads
>>>> so used a longer bolt and put a nut on back side.   Got it back together
>>>> on Sunday and had to wait until Mon morning to get some Christmas tree
>>>> fasteners to hold the belt shield.  Tuesday my wife drove it nearly 150
>>>> miles in OKC and made at least 15 stops running errands with no
>>>> problems.  Arrived at front gate and engine died.  Would not start when
>>>> cranking.  It is possible she stopped and backed up when it died, ( just
>>>> info for later )  but I cannot confirm.  Found battery ground cable
>>>> loose after engine would not crank.  Tightened cable and cranked
>>>> engine.  After several tries the starter would just spin and not engage
>>>> the flywheel.   Wednesday got reman starter and spent 3 hours removing
>>>> the old one.  I installed the new starter this morning, and it would
>>>> crank but not start.  The new starter really grinds, sounds like it is
>>>> coming apart.  Removed spark plug and cranked with spark plug
>>>> grounded.   No spark.  Changed ignition coil and still no spark.
>>>>
>>>> I don't know where or how to start looking.  Since the battery cable was
>>>> loose and I took off the ground to install the starter, the codes are
>>>> not in the computer.  I don't find any method for testing the ECM.
>>>> There are some forum discussions on the flex plate cracking around  the
>>>> crankshaft in an octagon pattern and the flex plate shifting.  When this
>>>> happens, the crank position sensor works on the flex plate, and is then
>>>> out of time with the cam position sensor.   I cannot find an inspection
>>>> plate to look at the flex plate.  It would be a 2 day job for me to
>>>> remove the transmission to look at the plate.  However, I wonder about
>>>> the original starter just spinning and then the replacement sounding
>>>> like it is about to fly apart.  If the flex plate is not right, the old
>>>> starter might have not been able to mesh and the new one is meshing but
>>>> in a bind.  The old starter had to be pried out of the housing as the
>>>> nose of the starter was nearly pressed into the bell housing.  The new
>>>> one was easily pushed into the housing.   So far I have lost over 3 days
>>>> and nearly $500 working on this when I need to be working on the swather
>>>> and the water pump on the 1270 Case to pull the swather.  An ECM is
>>>> another $400, and replacing the flex plate will be at least $600 because
>>>> I need to send it out.
>>>> Has anyone had any experience like this?   I know if I take it to the
>>>> stealership, I will be out $1000 by the time they get done.  I don't
>>>> have an independent mechanic here I can trust, and if I have to spend a
>>>> bundle on this car, I am about ready to buy a new one and try to get a
>>>> 20 year extended warranty!!!  Then maybe I can get some work done.
>>>>
>>>> Cecil in OKla
>>> Grab a voltmeter. Turn on the key and test the crank sensor for power
>>> and ground, It is on the bellhousing right below the crossover pipe for
>>> the exhaust. 3 wires, Brown/Pink is 8 volt bias voltage, Dark Blue/Dark
>>> Green is the ground. Brown/Light Blue is the signal wire. If you have a
>>> scope you would see a square wave on that line.
>>>
>>> Easy cheat IF it has a tach, Does the tach move at all while cranking?
>>>
>>> Next, disconnect the battery. Hold the two cables together for about 30
>>> seconds, this will drain the KAM capacitors. Now reconnect the cables.
>>> Turn on the key and lock/unlock the doors twice.
>>> See if it starts. You may need to step on the throttle if it acts like
>>> it wants to start because it will need to relearn the TPS output again.
>>>
>>> csr684  at  yahoo  dot com  if you wish to continue.
>>>
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