[AT] Off Topic. Need help with Dodge caravan computer maybe?

Ken Knierim ken.knierim at gmail.com
Thu May 18 20:33:46 PDT 2017


A couple thoughts based on my recent battle with my 88 Camaro.

The fuel pump is off during cranking until there is oil pressure (on mine).
They blip it on when the starter first is engaged but there is a relay that
kicks the pump back on after oil pressure comes up. Not sure if they did
something like this on the ignition on yours but it's a thought.

Some systems lock the ignition out until there is enough engine RPM during
cranking (I think it's around 450 RPM on the Camaro). Once you have enough
RPM, it's happy and you get spark. If your starter is giving you fits it
might be affecting other stuff too. It's hopefully not like the Chevy ones
where you have to shim it properly or it grinds and wrecks things.

I see something on Google about the ASD relay but that seems to get control
from the starter and may affect the fuel pump and spark according to this
page:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html

Not sure I helped. Good luck though.

Ken


On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 7:48 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:

> I know a lot of you guys have more experience with the computer systems
> than I have.  I have suffered through Youtube videos of nearly every
> self described ëxpert"in diagnosing a no start condition.  Here's the
> timeline of what has been replaced and what happened.  Wife's 2003 Grand
> Caravan w/ 3.8L V6 130000 miles.  Sat Morning, alternator making loud
> whine heard 40 yds away.  Alternator would burn your fingers after
> running only 4 minutes.  Dropped Alternator and found noisy water pump
> also leaking when inspecting other pulleys.  Replaced alternator and
> water pump after bolt broke off on water pump.  Drilled it out Sat night
> with cordless screwdriver and hex chuck style bits.  Had partial threads
> so used a longer bolt and put a nut on back side.   Got it back together
> on Sunday and had to wait until Mon morning to get some Christmas tree
> fasteners to hold the belt shield.  Tuesday my wife drove it nearly 150
> miles in OKC and made at least 15 stops running errands with no
> problems.  Arrived at front gate and engine died.  Would not start when
> cranking.  It is possible she stopped and backed up when it died, ( just
> info for later )  but I cannot confirm.  Found battery ground cable
> loose after engine would not crank.  Tightened cable and cranked
> engine.  After several tries the starter would just spin and not engage
> the flywheel.   Wednesday got reman starter and spent 3 hours removing
> the old one.  I installed the new starter this morning, and it would
> crank but not start.  The new starter really grinds, sounds like it is
> coming apart.  Removed spark plug and cranked with spark plug
> grounded.   No spark.  Changed ignition coil and still no spark.
>
> I don't know where or how to start looking.  Since the battery cable was
> loose and I took off the ground to install the starter, the codes are
> not in the computer.  I don't find any method for testing the ECM.
> There are some forum discussions on the flex plate cracking around  the
> crankshaft in an octagon pattern and the flex plate shifting.  When this
> happens, the crank position sensor works on the flex plate, and is then
> out of time with the cam position sensor.   I cannot find an inspection
> plate to look at the flex plate.  It would be a 2 day job for me to
> remove the transmission to look at the plate.  However, I wonder about
> the original starter just spinning and then the replacement sounding
> like it is about to fly apart.  If the flex plate is not right, the old
> starter might have not been able to mesh and the new one is meshing but
> in a bind.  The old starter had to be pried out of the housing as the
> nose of the starter was nearly pressed into the bell housing.  The new
> one was easily pushed into the housing.   So far I have lost over 3 days
> and nearly $500 working on this when I need to be working on the swather
> and the water pump on the 1270 Case to pull the swather.  An ECM is
> another $400, and replacing the flex plate will be at least $600 because
> I need to send it out.
> Has anyone had any experience like this?   I know if I take it to the
> stealership, I will be out $1000 by the time they get done.  I don't
> have an independent mechanic here I can trust, and if I have to spend a
> bundle on this car, I am about ready to buy a new one and try to get a
> 20 year extended warranty!!!  Then maybe I can get some work done.
>
> Cecil in OKla
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