[AT] 430V update

[Spencer Yost]

Thanks for all the thoughts and input.     I think it's interesting someone else on the list had the same exact problem.  I guess it's a pattern with these engines.   I used to have a single wheel MT.  It had a new manifold when I bought it.   Now I know why (-;

With Joe's note that it ran last year(I thought it was a couple of years ago) I am going to take Dean's advice and be a little more patient.  The tractor can't be as bad as it looks in only a year.  The camera is handy to a point, but you can't pick up nuances with it. The LED light just creates too much glare.  It is possible the rust looks worse than it is.

One new development: I was cleaning out the mighty vac vacuum and noticed there was some beads/globs of water mixed in with it penetratant so some water still existed.   So I plan on a few "flushing" cycles.  It's hard to tell how much water was in there, but it is possible that the penetrant simply floated on thin layer of water and never actually reached any of the areas that needed it.

Spencer Yost

> On Jun 18, 2017, at 4:45 PM, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> 
> Patience Spencer. Patience... Rome wasn't built in a day. Put the magic
> potion back in the cylinder and do something else for a month or so. My 60
> Cylinder looked pretty ugly too but I didn't take the engine apart. The easy
> thing to do is take the engine apart but then you will still have to bust
> the piston loose. Might as well let it soak for a while and make it easier
> for yourself now and even possibly later.  Right now all you have to replace
> is the pipe flange but that can come later if stored inside.    Maybe you
> can get lucky and not have to spend all the money on a complete overhaul
> Gaskets alone are even expensive.   BTW, if you really want to get some
> torque on the engine you can split the tractor. Not that big a deal and that
> will give you a chance to check out the clutch assembly and the throw out
> bearing. I split  it, put in a new clutch, new rear main seal and
> reassembled my JD 320 in less than a day. Just a few inexpensive pipe O ring
> gaskets are needed. 
> 
> 
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA 98290
> 
> It's better to be judged by 12 than carried by 6. 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Spencer Yost
> Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 9:36 AM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: [AT] 430V update
> 
> I used Father's Day as an excuse to spend the morning working on the 430
> instead of other things. I sucked out the penetrating fluid from the number
> one cylinder (with my mighty vac vacuum, another handy use for it).  And
> then got my inspection camera in the bore and found what appeared to be
> typical water infiltration. Wasn't any signs of damage, debris or anything
> like that.
> 
> But I was a little mystified. The muffler was on tight, no signs of rust in
> the muffler or piping and no signs there could be infiltration anywhere
> else.  No water in the oil or oil in the coolant.  There didn't appear to be
> any reason for the water at all. And then I found this.   Any water that ran
> down the muffler or ran off the hood into the exhaust pipe hole would have
> gotten through this rusted out spot in the manifold flange.
> 
> Mystery solved but the bore looked pretty rough.   The camera isn't perfect
> but I could see enough to see it wasn't just a little surface rust. 
> 
> I'm going to pull the manifold and head and pan.   I don't think force is
> the right thing for this situation.  Rings are bound to be stuck bad.
> 
> 
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