[AT] JD 430 update

[Dick Day]

I would tend to agree with Howard.  Normally, I'm a get a bigger hammer
guy, but with these rare, old engines, I'd use force as a last resort.

On Thu, Jun 8, 2017 at 1:22 PM, Howard Weeks <weeksh at att.net> wrote:

> Spencer,
>
> In my experience and lots of opinion:
>
> There are lots of ways to damage an engine or gear system trying to
> break one loose by twisting a wheel or PTO.
>
> The head and pan is easily removed from a 430. Remove them, fill the
> cylinders with your favorite concoction and begin watching the level.
> Get a short piece of 4x4 that is cut square on the end and long enough
> to stick up above the block when setting on top of the piston. About
> once a day, go by it and whack the top of the 4x4 with about a 4 pound
> hammer once or twice. I have had some engines that took a couple weeks
> to give up but they ultimately did. I actually poured diesel in an
> upright piston once, set it on fire, and let it burn out. When done, the
> piston moved and the fire didn't hurt the block. The engine is still
> running today. It did have steel pistons.
>
> When the piston does move, pull the rod caps and remove both pistons.
> Clean everything up, change the rings and inserts, and reassemble. Check
> the valves closely while you are at it.
>
> Now, you will know exactly what kind of condition the motor is in rather
> than guessing.
>
> I have been tempted to brute force turn a stuck engine several times but
> ultimately did not and tore the engine down. What I found in all cases
> was a mess of rust that was bad enough that it would have done much more
> damage if I had ultimately gotten it started in that condition.
>
> Good luck with it and be patient!
>
> Howard in GA
>
>
> On 6/7/2017 11:32 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> > Since I brought the 430 home, I have been soaking the engine with a
> mixture of penetrant and ATF. The engine is definitely stuck tighter than a
> drum. One cylinder appears to very slowly sleep some fluid. The level
> decreases but not fast(days) and barely enough to raise fluid level in the
> oil pan.  The other cylinder has not had a single drop decrease in the
> level of the fluid.
> >
> > One question for the group: there is no good way to try to rock the
> engine.  All my normal tricks like ring gear, crankshaft pulley nut, etc.
> are not accessible or not situated in such a way that it would be safe for
> the tractor or effective.  Would you try the PTO shaft?  I have not needed
> to use the PTO shaft before but it seems like the gearing just is not right
> to generate a lot of torque.   Plus I would need a coupler or adapter or
> something to protect the shaft from the pipe wrench.
> >
> > On a positive note; I have done further inspection of the tractor , and
> I am liking this tractor more and more. It is very clearly a very low hour
> tractor. There is no slop or play in the power take off,  transmission,
> rear drivetrains or anything. With the tractor in gear and the engine stuck
> it barely moves an inch. The only thing that shows any kind of real wear is
> the universal joint at the steering wheel. But even that wear is at an
> acceptable level.
> >
> > Spencer Yost
> >
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