[AT] 430V update (a bit off topic)

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Sat Jul 29 10:11:24 PDT 2017


I don't mean to hijack Spencer's thread but:
Speaking of stuck engines.  I have a Fairbanks Morse stationary engine
that I like to play with but because of an injured knee and watching out
for my ailing and ultimately dying mother it sat unattended outdoors
for a couple of years with out benefit of my normal ritual to spin it over
once and a while.  I finally worked my way back to it recently to find it
stuck tight.  I'm guessing it must have stopped with the exhaust valve open
a bit.  I pulled the spark plug expecting to see signs of water but there 
was none.
(the engine sits outside as it was intended to do when manufactured)  What I 
did
find on the electrode of the spark plug was bug residue, a bit of cob web 
and part
of a well dried bug of some sort.  I sprayed it down well with PBlaster 
which is what
I had handy and put the plug back in it.  I sprayed down the valves and all 
the external
moving parts.  In the next few days I'll reposition the exhaust stack (it's 
turned down flat
now) and fill the cylinder with diesel or whatever concoction I come up with 
and hope for
the best.  I really hate to have to pull the old girl apart.  There is no 
sign that it's ever
been opened up and she always ran very well.

We shall see.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: John Hall
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 9:08 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] 430V update

Lowes sells gallons of WD-40. I'm not a huge fan of it but did use it on
my Titan. Don't know how well it worked as we still had to drive the
pistons out, but we had been dealing with an engine that sat 60 years
untouched. Even if you have to drive them out, soaking should improve
things.

John Hall


On 7/28/2017 9:59 PM, Spencer Yost wrote:
> I am still soaking the engine, and not much seems to be going on. I have 
> noticed that when I use a very thin  penetrant; like the 3M product, or 
> Gibbs, or what not the penetrant does seem to leak down. In fact I  even 
> see air bubbles around the circumference of the piston with my bore scope. 
> But if drain it and I put anything thicker, like my diesel/ATF solution, 
> it  just sits there.
>
> But I have been able to procure a new rear wheel. I believe I mentioned it 
> before, but the only thing that was ever really wrong with this tractor is 
> calcium had eaten away at part of the right rear wheel. I knew about this 
> when I bought it. But the tire basically kind of sorta holds air and the 
> wheel holds up the tractor.  But I knew it needed to be replaced. I 
> recently scored a nearly pristine, correct, welded, rear wheel for this 
> tractor. The earlier tractors like the 40 and the M were riveted(Dean fact 
> check me on that) . But these were welded. Less easy to find than you 
> might imagine in good shape.  I didn't get a steal on it, but I wasn't 
> completely ripped off either. Which is what I would've expected to happen. 
> :-). And they are not making them any more so I figured I should just go 
> ahead and get it.
>
> Which leads me to an ATIS list member trip. An old time, and unfortunately 
> previous, list member Brice Adams picked  up the wheel for me. So I drove 
> to his house this past weekend and visited with him to pick up the wheel. 
> We had a great tractor weekend. He has a B that is stuck and sitting in 
> the fence row, so using one of his newer John Deeres we got that pulled 
> out, drained water in the oil and we got penetrating fluid in it .   Then 
> we did quite a bit of work on a farmall cub with a woods mower and got it 
> running. He still has a little more carb work to do to get it running 100% 
> reliably(needs choke to run), but it runs very nice when you dial in the 
> throttle and the choke cable.  Great hospitality and great fun!
>
> Spencer Yost
>
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