[AT] a "few" days ago

[John Hall]

Thanks for the comments guys.
Regarding the shrapnel marks on the wall, notice the exhaust goes out at 
an angle. We initially used a carburetor off of a 70's model IH tractor 
and a Farmall M magneto. While we had fuel and fire, things were a bit 
out of adjustment. There were a few backfires and it must have jarred 
loose a bunch of crap from inside the manifold, hence the marks in the 
wall. The manifold is rather huge, has 2 round baffles you "dial" to the 
desired heat setting to match the fuel.

The main casting for the tractor goes from front to back. The crankshaft 
actually sits half in the frame, just like on a large flywheel engine 
with the bock serving as bearing caps--I think that is correct, no idea 
how you shim the crank bearings. There is no oil pan, but a fluted plate 
over the bottom of the crankcase.

Going by memory we used 18ft of plug wire. The radiator is copper core, 
I think. Tractor uses a water pump, no thermo-syphon setup. You have to 
remove the valve cover to oil the valves, nothing simple like flip top 
oilers on IH tractors. Grease cups are still used to grease the tractor, 
alemites had not been adopted by Case yet. Two speed trans. with a hand 
clutch.

This tractor rides really smooth. Here's why--long cleats. If you look 
at the cleats, before one cleat is through making contact with the 
ground, another has already begun--there is no gap between the start of 
one and the end of another. Dad's 10-20 McCormick however isn't like 
that--there is a nice gap between the end of one cleat and the start of 
the next--makes for a bumpy ride indeed.

Thanks for letting me share.

John Hall