[AT] 430V Update and misc.

Dean VP deanvp at att.net
Thu Aug 31 16:04:50 PDT 2017


I suspect a major contributor now is the inability to get good torque on the
crank shaft.

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Spencer Yost
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 6:01 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] 430V Update and misc.

Sorry to hear of June's husband, and thanks for the advice.   I do already
have the rocker arm assembly off, mainly so the valves could close so I
could try adding air pressure to the cylinder to help force penetrant down.
Exhaust valve leaks too much for that trick to work but I have left the arm
off.   All the valves operate smoothly  by the way.

Take care!

Spencer Yost

> On Aug 31, 2017, at 8:12 AM, joehardy <joehardy at epix.net> wrote:
> 
> Spencer, I'd suggest removing the valve cover and rocker assembly to
identify some possible stuck valves. I'm thankful I didn't put my MM in gear
while towing it home because found stuck valves. It would had been very
costly otherwise. PS: June's husband passed away a few weeks ago. Joe
Hardisky, Ryman farm, Dallas, PA.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Spencer Yost <yostsw at atis.net>
Date: 8/31/17  12:59 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: [AT] 430V Update and misc. 
> Up late doing some work and thought I would post an update...
> 
> Still nothing to report.  Joe soaked it a little before I got it and I
have soaked it for more than 3 months.   I have switched to pure penetrant
for soaking.  I have tried several methods of force and nothing is budging
it.  I haven't tried dragging it, which is always a last resort in my mind.
> 
> I think I have a situation where a very small percentage of the  entire
circumference is not rusted. So  I get drainage over several days with
light-bodied penetrant but I'm thinking the fluid won't stay in long enough
to penetrate the rust( I get a rise in the dip stick level too).  If I put a
thicker fluid in it i don't think it is penetrating because the fluid level
doesn't change.  I may have to at least pull the oil pan.
> 
> I have unstuck several engines, and they always fall in the two camps:
total hopeless cases that require the pistons be broken out or hydraulic
pressure. The rest eventually give up the ghost with some patient soaking. I
have a bore scope and I don't believe anything I have seen would indicate a
difficult unsticking job.  So I am mindful of the idea there is the small
possibility the lock-up is somewhere else. 
> 
> I do change the penetrating fluid regularly since most will absorb
moisture from ambient air and until recently it has been very humid.
> 
> Before I do the oil pan I have one or two tricks up my sleeve.   I'll let
you know how that goes....
> 
> PS. I recently remembered I unstuck a mini bike engine when I was 15 for a
girlfriend's younger brother. He had the carb off and it rained on it.  To
be honest I don't remember if it was a stuck valve or engine.  If I have to
be honest, it ran like crap after that(I was still honing my mechanic
skills).  I also remember what her mother said:  "all Julie's other
boyfriends say stuff and never do it.  You are first one that doesn't say
anything and does it".   I got serious boyfriend points with the mother
because of that mini-bike. They were a conservative, religious family and
public dances were not their "thing".  So I still think fixing that minibike
got me a date with the daughter for the homecoming dance. :-).   Funny how
those memories become sweeter over time.  
> 
> 
> Spencer Yost
> 
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