[AT] JD B resurrection contemplation
Dave
rotigel at me.com
Tue Apr 4 16:59:12 PDT 2017
Who is Ethyl and what does she have to do with removing pistons?
Dave
On Apr 4, 2017, at 3:05 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
wrote:
Dry Ice works better with Alcohol, Isopropil or ethanol or methanol,
Ethyl will also will also work both bottled in bond and bottled in
or
behind the barn!!
Cecil
On 4/4/2017 11:26 AM, charlie hill wrote:
Al, the Nitrogen will lower the temperature of the piston
dramatically
and cause it to shrink, breaking the bond with the cyl. wall.
A hunk of dry ice laid on top of the piston should do the same
thing.
At least that is what I think it would do.
Charlie
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Jones
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 9:41 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] JD B resurrection contemplation
Cecil, can you elaborate on the liquid Nitrogen thing for removing
stuck pistons?
Al
On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 6:11 PM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
wrote:
If you have to remove the block w/ stuck pistons, turn it upside
down,
fill the pistons up to the tops of the skirts with liquid Nitrogen,
Liquid propane works too, I used it until I got a Dewar. Let it sit
awhile then try to push the pistons out with a hardwood block or a
heavy
metal spacer that just fits into the bore, and a hydraulic jack. If
you
have a big press that would be great.
Cecil in OKla
On 4/2/2017 9:44 PM, deanvp wrote:
John, Excellent advice. I've had good luck filling the cylinders
with a
favorite concoction, assuming both valves are closed and rocker arm
and
spark plugs removed, and use a long bar tied to the flywheel. Let it
soak
for days maybe even weeks. Each day try to turn the flywheel. When
it is
ready it will pop loose. Then work the flywheel back and forth until
you
can get it to turn several revolutions. Then have someone pull you
on the
tractor with it in gear with either Kerosene or Diesel fuel in the
crankcase. Let the engine turn over and over until it is fully
loose.The
thinner fluid helps get the cylinder wall lubricated faster than
regular
oil. Then do what you normally do to start it the first time. It
may
exhaust all kinds of crap out the muffler and will probably exhaust
a lot
of blue smoke for a long time due to oil rings which may be stuck.
Get
the engine up to operating temperature(200 degrees if possible) and
run
it at that temp for at least 15 minutes. Then !
s!
hut it down for at least 24 hours and start it again and see if the
blue
smoke is less. Repeat as necessary. The heating and cooling will
eventually release the stuck rings if you are lucky. I've saved
three 2
cylinder JD engines this way and have never needed to tear them
down.
Might be worth a try. Worst case you will have to tear it down.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
-------- Original message --------From: John Hall
<jtchall at nc.rr.com>
Date: 4/2/17 7:00 PM (GMT-07:00) To: Antique tractor email
discussion
group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com> Subject: Re: [AT] JD B
resurrection
contemplation
If the cylinders are stuck because they are full of water, then
nothing,
you are going to have to take it apart and remove the gunk. VERIFY
that
the valves are not stuck or you WILL break something (been there
done
that)---ever notice how many hit-and-miss engines have the rocker
arm
post welded back to the head? The problem with trying to soak a
Deere is
the amount of fluid it takes to fill up the cylinder, of course if
there
is a valve open you are going to be filling up something else as
well.
When we were working on my Titan 10-20 (also a 2 cylinder horizontal
engine), I just went to Lowes and bought a gallon of wd-40 and
poured
half in each cylinder and let it soak until we ever got it in the
shop,
somewhere between a week and 2 months, I don't remember. I've heard
good
things about diesel and ATF, besides its cheap. If this turns out to
be
a worst case scenario of frozen solid, Then pull the engine and
safely
secure it with the bores upright so you can resort to better
penetrating
oils such as PB-Blaster or Kroil. I had one so bad once we poured in
diesel fuel and set it on fire. Obviously there are many dangers
with
that and you need to think ahead and have at least one other person
around for help. Know before you decide to beat the crap out of the
pistons to remove them, you need to make something that has a little
bit
of clearance in the bore and has a relieved center--remember the
center
of the piston isn't stuck so you don't need to hit it--you need to
hit
the skirt/sides, thats the reason for the relieved face. I've heard
of
using wood but I prefer metal myself. For really bad engines I've
heard
of dry ice, boiling water,lots of ideas. Lets hope yours is rather
"boring" and comes apart easily.
Well I got long winded on that, keep us posted please, been a
LOOOOOOONG
time since anyone here actually took on a restoration like this (if
they
did I don't recall any posts about it).
John Hall
On 4/2/2017 5:52 PM, Al Jones wrote:
Now, I know it's been discussed a million times, and everyone has
their
favorite, but what do you think would be the best "julip" to start
soaking it with? My notion is to fill the spark plug holes as well
as
fill the main case....I fear there's rust in the crankcase/tranny
because the gear shift lever is stuck.
Al
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