[AT] It's trying, but... no lift

Scott Williams swillia5 at rochester.rr.com
Fri Sep 16 11:09:13 PDT 2016


They specify MF1129A for the 135, and many 135 owners online recommended the
TSC oil I put in.  The MF "expert" Big Dean recommended against mineral oil,
because of buildup of waxes and other stuff inside the case over years of
use (which he said he spent many hours cleaning out.)

Scott in Penfield NY



-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Cecil Bearden
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 9:08 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift

Dennis:

The old 35 and through 65 series used 90wt Pure mineral Oil.  I don't know
about the later models.  The pumps were the same so I would think that they
would use the same oil.  The later ones used MF1129A spec or 
303 fluid or universal tractor fluid.   I would think that this tractor 
would use PMO 90 since it does not have wet brakes.

Cecil in OKla


On 9/15/2016 11:45 PM, Dennis Johnson wrote:
> Scott
>
> You might want to check oil type. I think these use MINERAL OIL and not
universal fluid.
> I do not think that this is your problem, but it may cause other issues
when you get it fixed.
> One other simple thing to check is the tube that moves oil up from the
pump assembly to the valve body. It is possible that this tube split or lost
seals - but not that probable. Loosen and remove the 4 bolts to the relief
valve assemble and lift it up to inspect.
>
> Thanks
> Dennis
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Sep 15, 2016, at 10:25 PM, Scott Williams <swillia5 at rochester.rr.com>
wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for all the replies!
>>
>> I started the tractor up from cold today and couldn't lift the mower 
>> off the ground.
>>
>> I drained out the chocolate milk (WOW) and filled with 8 gallons of 
>> Traveller "premium" universal tractor trans/hydraulic fluid, from TSC.
>> Immediately started it up, and no difference.
>>
>> A while back I found a collection of files and images, basically some 
>> tips and information about MF 35/65/135/165 tractor maintenance that 
>> was once sold on a CD, called "Big Dean's", by a guy who knew a lot 
>> about the inner workings of these (as some of you do.)  I'll have to 
>> see if any of the things he mentions help me find the problem.  His 
>> first suggestion is to remove the side cover (where the dipstick is) 
>> and see if there's a problem with the linkage to the quadrant 
>> controls.  Also says where to look for oil leaks inside the case 
>> (from a blown o-ring in one case, or from a bad relief valve.  Many
repairs would need the lift cover removed.  Ouch.
>>
>> With moving into the new house, as it is still being built 
>> (electricians, bathroom tile guy, painters, etc. still all over the 
>> place) it is hard to find time to deal with this.  I spoke with a guy 
>> who has a box blade for sale.  It's a Woods BSS72, should work for 
>> this tractor, but I could REALLY use the tractor to help me move it
(unload from the van) if I do buy it.
>> Can't do that without the lift working.  I'd really like a box blade 
>> to fix my gravel driveway before winter hits.  As it is, it gets 
>> really muddy, and has a hole right where it meets the asphalt of the 
>> road.  I know there's a LOT of gravel under all that dirt (we've had 
>> it brought in multiple times.)
>>
>> I have several workshop manuals, one is a reprint by a guy on eBay (I 
>> think) that I can't find right now because of the move.  I have a 
>> scan of an I&T manual (I know) and a scan of a UK 135/148 manual (not 
>> very easy to follow, lot of talk about "special tools", etc.)  Wish I
could find that reprint.
>>
>> I also have an original operator's manual, which I scanned and put 
>> online (since I had so much trouble finding one.)
>>
>> Scott in Penfield NY
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Scott 
>> Williams
>> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 1:50 AM
>> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> Subject: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift
>>
>> Today I mounted a new set of heavy duty flail blades on my Alamo 
>> SHD74 flail (thank you, Flail-Master.) This is mounted on my '72 
>> Massey Ferguson 135 vineyard diesel.  The new blades work great, did 
>> a LOT of clearing, but after a few hours, the 3 point wouldn't lift 
>> the mower.  It would try, but it would only lift the front of the 
>> mower, and sort of shudder like it was trying to lift it (the mower 
>> weighs over 900 lbs.)  I have not yet changed the hydraulic oil in 
>> this machine (not being familiar with changing EIGHT GALLONS of oil 
>> at a shot... though I'm sure that's nothing compared to some of your 
>> machines.)  I was reading on this list from last winter, and reading 
>> about using a cut barrel to catch the oil, and maybe digging a pit 
>> for the barrel if necessary, so thanks for that info. It's been on my
to-do list, but I really need to get to it now.
>>
>>
>>
>> What else would suddenly cause the 3 point to stop lifting?  It 
>> wasn't having any trouble when I started, so it seems unlikely to me 
>> that I suddenly didn't have enough fluid (unless there's a new big 
>> leak I don't know about.)  Crud or something caused a valve to stick open
(or closed)?
>> Something worse?  Other than change the fluid, what should I be 
>> thinking about?
>>
>>
>>
>> I suppose there's a chance that there's a lot of water in the oil.  I 
>> was climbing up and down some really steep banks, could water have 
>> gotten someplace and caused this?
>>
>>
>>
>> Either way, I'll get some oil at TSC and do a change, and see what
happens.
>>
>>
>>
>> Scott in Penfield NY
>>
>>
>>
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