[AT] It's trying, but... no lift

Fri Sep 16 10:57:08 PDT 2016

Stephen,

It seemed very sudden.  I had no problem lifting the mower over rocks, or
when I found myself starting  to get stuck in deep brush, then suddenly I
went to lift, and it stayed on the ground, but twisted itself like it was
trying to come up, sort of jerking in place (I'd say the front of the mower
was moving 3 to 5 inches, up and down, 2 or 3 times a second, while the rear
roller stayed completely on the ground.)

Then no change when it was restarted cold.

I don't notice the "jerking" so much now when I try it, and I think that may
be more to do with sitting on flat ground vs. it happening when the mower
was on rough ground.  So maybe the rough ground allowed the mower to "rock"
as it tried to lift.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Stephen Offiler
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2016 1:01 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] It's trying, but... no lift

Dennis, this is exactly the reason I posed questions to Scott about whether
it happened suddenly or gradually, and whether it might be working again now
(temporarily, until it heats up)

SO

On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 9:56 AM, Dennis Johnson <moscowengnr at outlook.com>
wrote:

> I have a MF35D that also has lift problems. I am guessing either the 
> piston seal broke, or the pump went out. Before this happened I could 
> lift round bales with a rear spear.
>
> Mine will now lift for 3 to 5 minutes until the oil warms enough and 
> then nothing.
> Just waiting to get to that project after I get a few others completed.
>
> The MF 35 series are great tractors. When I was in High School, I 
> drove am
> MF65 one summer back when wheat fields were plowed.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Sep 15, 2016, at 8:48 AM, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> >
> > Those systems were a piston pump with an unloader valve and a relief 
> > valve.  I have seen a few relief valves go bad in my years of 
> > working with Ferguson systems, but it is rare.  It is possible that 
> > sitting out in the open over the winter in NY created enough 
> > condensation that the spring in the relief valve rusted and broke.  
> > The control/relief valves were pretty reliable, but they had their 
> > issues.  My first guess is that the rings in the top deck hydraulic
piston have broken and the oil is
> > leaking by in the lift piston.   There is also the possibility tht this
> > machine has set for so long and then moved around and loosened up 
> > the crud in the bottom of the sump and the screen has picked it up.
> >
> > Please note the what I am going to tell  you is from the regular 135 
> > tractors and the 35 tractors.  The vineyard may be different,
> > conceptually they are the same..   A good FACTORY service manual is
> > invaluable here.   I got burned by I&T manuals, so I really do not
> > recommend them anymore.  The Wisconsin historical society may have a 
> > reprint of the manual available for you.  They have a lot and their 
> > charge for reprints is really cheap.
> >
> > On the lift control quadrant ( right side hyd lift lever )  There 
> > should be 2 levers.  The long one for lift and the short one for draft.
> > Sometimes the draft control will over ride the lift.  The draft 
> > control lever(short one with the square metal knob) should be 
> > between the 2 arrows that say draft on the quadrant.  It should be 
> > stamped into the metal.
> >   That knob should be in the center between the arrows.  Then try to 
> > raise the lift with the other lever.  if not, leave the lift lever a 
> > little below the top and then move the draft lever to see if 
> > anything happens.  This might fix your problem.  If not see below.  
> > If you are going to change the fluid, you need to clean the screen.
> >
> > On the left side of the transmission, under the seat is a round 
> > plate with the PTO lever.  Remove the plate with the lever. 
> > Disconnect the PTO shaft and start the tractor with the mower 
> > attached.  Raise the lift and watch for fluid draining from the top deck
lift piston and dripping down
> > into the sump.  A drip is OK, we just do not want a gusher..   If it
> > just drips, your problem is in the bottom.
> >
> > inside the transmission about 4 to 6 inches in the bottom is a 
> > filter screen that looks about the size of a pop can It has a top 
> > and bottom cup, and is separated about an inch in the middle.  The 
> > top half has a metal handle piece that you use to unscrew 
> > counterclockwise the top is attached to a bolt that screws into the 
> > intake of the pump.  You take the screen with both cups out and wash 
> > it out.  This is easiest when the oil is drained.  There are 2 drain 
> > plugs,  one under the front of the transmission behind the clutch 
> > housing, and the other under the plate you took off. If the screen is
full of junk, you have found the problem.
> >
> > When you replace the round plate with the PTO lever,  make sure the 
> > inside lever goes in the slot of the PTO shifter.
> >
> > If you have any problems, take some pictures and post on here. We 
> > will try to fix it remotely!!
> >
> > Cecil in oKla
> >
> >
> >> On 9/15/2016 7:38 AM, Bo Hinch wrote:
> >> Sounds to me like you have a piece of trash in the pressure 
> >> unloader
> valve
> >> .
> >>
> >>> On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 6:28 AM, Stephen Offiler 
> >>> <soffiler at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Just a few quick thoughts Scott.
> >>>
> >>> 1)  you used the word "suddenly".  Was it literally fine one 
> >>> minute and problematic the next?  Or, did it actually go away sort of
gradually?
> >>>
> >>> 2)  Have you tried it again since?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Steve O.
> >>> PS:  when I'm faced with draining ~8 gallons (I've got about 7 
> >>> gallons
> in
> >>> my modern-ish Ford 1520 hydrostat)  I drain part of it and stick 
> >>> the
> drain
> >>> plug back in, then deal with the amount (2-3 gallons) I've 
> >>> drained,
> then
> >>> repeat as required.  OK, yeah, putting the drain plug back into a
> stream of
> >>> draining oil is a bit messy admittedly.
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> >>>
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