[AT] no exhaust gasket?

Cecil Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Sun Sep 4 18:29:37 PDT 2016


All are great suggestions.  If you can seal the manifold to exhaust pipe 
connection on an IHC 304 or 345 V8, then you have something that will 
work on anything.   Here, we used to always know when the Mistletoe 
Express truck was coming from the exhaust spit.   (  Mistletoe Express 
was our UPS back in the 70's.  It was a division of the Daily Oklahoman 
newspaper in OKC.   The newspaper delivery trucks would make a run with 
the paper, and then pick up  packages & LTL freight coming back.   Later 
after the ICC got upset, the Daily OK had to start a new company called 
Mistletoe Express.  They served KS, OK, TX and some of MO.    We used to 
buy the old Daily OK trucks and install dump beds on them and sell at 
farm auctions.  I still have one IHC and a Ford.) .

You could never seal  that connection and make it hold.  I know a lot of 
mechanics in the IHC dealership that just said that is how they are 
supposed to sound.  They used a steel gasket that was curved on one side 
and fit flat against the manifold outlet.  They used springs under the 
bottom flange.   The springs would lose tension due to the manifold 
running red hot and the steel gasket would break.  For one of the best 
trucks ever made ( IMHO )  it was the worst design for an exhaust 
system.   At one time we had 13 IHC trucks around the farm.  You would 
get one sounding great and sealed up for the yearly inspection,  and 
within 100 miles, it was broke.  They used a thin metal gasket about 
0.025in that was also a heat shield for the spark plugs between the 
manifold and the head.

Just a little party trivia...

Cecil in OKla


On 9/4/2016 5:38 PM, Mike M wrote:
> Those are some good ideas, Steve. What about a piece of old welding
> blanket? Might even coat it with the furnace cement.
>
> Mike M
>
>
> On 9/4/2016 6:22 PM, Steve W. wrote:
>> John Hall wrote:
>>> Not tractor but old combine. My Deere 3300 with a 219 gas engine has an
>>> exhaust leak. It is where the exhaust pipe attaches to the manifold.
>>> This is accomplished by means of a very heavy cast elbow bolted directly
>>> to the manifold with 3 bolts. There was no sign of any gasket. Me nor
>>> the parts guys at Deere can find a gasket in either the engine or the
>>> combine parts books. There best parts guy at the local store (I highly
>>> respect his ability) suggested there wasn't a gasket used. I cleaned and
>>> checked the surfaces and they are relatively flat, within .005" or so.
>>> What do you guys think about the no gasket used possibilty? I have a
>>> friend that used to do heavy truck repairs. He says NAPA has an exhaust
>>> sealer that is very tar like. He said they were able to seal some
>>> exhaust leaks with it--used it where the flare of the pipe clamped to
>>> the manifold. He also said some Chevrolets were put together with no
>>> exhaust manifold gasket--I think this was figured out by mechanics, not
>>> the factory. This is all new to me, Every exhaust I dealt with had a
>>> gasket. What do you guys think?
>>>
>>> John Hall
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>
>> Quite a few items like that are put together without a seal, just
>> machined very flat (within .0005-.001 usually). Works fine until the
>> parts get worn, pitted or damaged. Then you either replace the pieces,
>> repair them by facing them on a mill or similar or add a gasket.
>>
>> As this was already leaking I would say a gasket should do the trick.
>> (unless you have a way to machine both surfaces again).
>> I've used a few exhaust sealers over the years for those areas that you
>> either cannot get a correct gasket or in an area where a gasket just
>> won't work. The two that have worked the best were good furnace cement
>> (for flanges such as yours) and "muffler patch" aka water glass paste.
>> The latter works good on flanges IF you use the type with the patch
>> material. Just cut it to the shape of a gasket, apply the paste, bolt it
>> down tight and start the engine to cure it. Let it cool down and check
>> the bolts. Stuff lasted for over 5 years on a GM truck that had
>> manifolds that were VERY pitted and wouldn't seal with normal gaskets.
>>
>
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